Real Estate and *stuff *
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You Might Face Tax-Filing Delay This Year
January 27, 2013
In a rush to claim the home owner tax benefits Congress reinstated? Not so fast. The IRS isn’t ready to accept your tax returns.
Congress’s down-to-the-wire fiscal cliff deal on tax changes, which included some goodies for home owners, has put the IRS behind the eight ball. It’s scrambling to create new tax forms and modify old ones to reflect the tax code changes.
So if you’re raring to collect your due (and you’re eligible to), time to get Zen and sit tight.
In case you missed it, Congress resurrected:
So that’s the cool part. Now for the paperwork part.
What Kind of Delays are We Talking About?
The IRS was planning to have the 1040 — the workhorse form pretty much all of us have to fill out — on its website by Jan. 22. But now, it’s going to be Jan. 30. That means you can’t file your return until Jan. 30. It doesn’t matter if you file online or with paper — as far as filing is concerned, the IRS is closed for business until Jan. 30.
Still, that’s just over a week, and the various records you receive from banks, brokerages, and employers might not be ready until the end of January anyway. So it’s not a biggie.
But if you’re claiming the energy credits with Form 5695, you’ll have to wait longer. The IRS doesn’t even know when that form, along with many others, will be available. End of February? Beginning of March? Stay tuned.
Regardless, you should still be able to meet the April 15 deadline.
For now, gather your paperwork, such as proof of any credits you’re entitled to, so when the IRS is ready, you are, too. And check with your tax pro or customer service department of the software you use to make sure they’re up to speed as well.
The Biggest Air Leak in Your House You Don’t Know About
January 9, 2013
There’s a gap in your home that’s wasting precious energy and inviting cold air inside — do you know where it is?
Have you caulked windows and replaced weather stripping on your doors? Good for you. But if you think you’ve sealed up air leaks, you’re in for a shock.
The biggest air leak in your home is right under your nose.
Or, underfoot, more accurately.
It’s the hole that a plumber cuts in the subfloor to make room for the drain assembly at the bottom of a bathtub. Because the drain assembly is big, plumbers make way for it by cutting a generous-size hole that gives them some “wiggle room” when connecting plumbing pipes. This big hole often is left open to the space below.
If you have a first-floor bathroom over a crawl space or unheated basement, you likely have one of these giant energy wasters in your home“Having that big hole for the bathtub drain can waste about as much energy as leaving one of your windows open a few inches, all day, every day,” says Allison Bailes III, president of energy consultant firm Energy Vanguard. “The main difference is that you can easily close the window, but most people don’t even know about this other open window.”
And BTW, that hole also is big enough for good-size critters to crawl inside your home!
Plumbers may plug this hole with a wad of loose insulation, but that’s an imperfect solution — fiberglass insulation can sag over time, especially if it gets damp. The preferred method is to insert foam board that’s cut to fit around the pipes, then seal the board in place with spray foam insulation.
You won’t know if you have a problem unless you crawl under your bathroom and take a look at the tub drain assembly from underneath. Patch the hole with pieces of foam board screwed in place, then seal any gaps with spray foam insulation ($8/can).
A plumber will do the job, too, but that’ll set you back $100-$150. Probably worth it when you think about energy savings, comfort, and keeping mice and camel crickets out of your house!
Trees You Should Never Plant in Your Yard
October 18, 2012
Cool weather is the best time to plant trees — low temps ease the stress on young trees and give them time to root in before the onset of growing season. But beware! You don’t want to be planting a long-term problem. What to avoid? Before you head to a nursery, check out these trees that are more trouble than they’re worth.
Credit: A Corner Garden
1. Silver maple (Acer saccharinum)
Big, fast-growing, and a dandy shade tree, silver maple is widespread in eastern states and the Midwest. Unfortunately, the speed at which the tree grows makes for weak, brittle wood that may break during severe storms. The shallow root system invades sewage pipes and drain fields, and is notorious for cracking driveways and walkways.
Credit: ©2011 Melissa WILLIAMS / LEAF
2. Ash (Fraxinus)
Sturdy and tough, the many varieties of ash that populate North America are some of our most beloved trees. Professional baseball bats are made from its wood — how American is that? But the venerable ash is threatened by the emerald ash borer, a tiny beetle that’s on track to wipe out the species. If you’re looking for a long-term tree for your yard, look elsewhere.
Credit: David Wilson
3. Quaking Aspen (Populus tremuloides)
The aspen is found in northern climes and higher elevations. Its white bark and gently vibrating leaves are attractive, but its root system is insidious, sending up dozens of suckers that relentlessly try to turn into new trees. Once established, it’s war. In fact, the largest living organism in the world is a Colorado aspen root system called Pando. It weighs 6,600 tons and is thought to be 80,000 years old. Try digging that out!
Canadian Forest Service
4. Hybrid Poplars (Populus)
Hybrid poplars are created by cross-pollinating two or more poplar species together. The result can be a fast-growing tree that looks good in your yard — for a while. Hybrid poplars are especially susceptible to diseases, and most won’t last more than 15 years. This poor fellow is dying … quickly.
Credit: EV Grieve
5. Willow (Salix)
With its long, slender branches that hang down like Rapunzel’s tresses, the willow is one of the most recognizable of all trees. Beautiful on the outside, yes, but the willow has an aggressive, water-hungry root system that terrorizes drain fields, sewer lines, and irrigation pipes. The wood is weak and prone to cracking, and the tree is relatively short-lived, lasting only about 30 years.
Credit: Isolino Ferriera and zulufriend/iStockphoto
6. Eucalyptus
Imported from Australia and popularized for their speedy growth — some varieties will shoot up 10 feet in a year — the eucalyptus has a bad rap for suddenly and unexpectedly dropping big, heavy, resin-filled branches. In some areas of Australia, campers are warned not to pitch tents under eucalyptus trees. Its showy bark peels off annually and adds to seasonal maintenance chores.
Credit: Casey Trees
7. Bradford pear (Pyrus calleryana)
The Bradford pear was imported to the U.S. from China in the early 1900s as replacement for orchard trees that were dying. With its compact shape and profusion of spring blossoms, the Bradford pear became a suburban favorite — until folks realized that it was highly prone to splitting and cracking when it reached maturity. And those blossoms? They’re on the stinky side of the fragrance scale.
Credit: Andy Heatwole
8. Mountain cedar (Juniperus ashei)
Stay away from the mountain cedar in late winter. This bushy tree, native to the south central U.S., releases massive amounts of pollen during the cooler months, causing severe allergic reactions in many people. Even if you don’t have allergies, planting one in your yard may affect your neighbors.
Credit: Remodeling This Life
9. Mulberry (Morus)
Big surface roots, lots of pollen, messy fruit, and shade so dense that grass refuses to grow underneath. What’s to like about the mulberry? If you’re a silkworm, the answer is: Plenty! The mulberry is the silkworm’s only source of food. Silkworm farmers should plant away! Otherwise, you’ll be happier with a different kind of tree in your yard.
Credit: Jeffrey Beall/Wikipedia
10. Black walnut (Juglans nigra)
Native to North America, this well-known shade tree produces prized cabinet- and furniture-making wood. It also produces pollen and plenty of fruit that’ll drive you, well, nuts when you have to clean it all up in the fall. It’s true sinister side, however, is that it secretes growth-inhibiting toxins that kill nearby plants, wreaking havoc on flower beds and vegetable gardens.
Credit: Hugh Conlon/What Grows There
11. Leyland cypress (Cupressocyparis leylandii)
These fast-growing evergreen trees are favored for their ability to quickly create a living privacy screen. However, they require constant upkeep and trimming to keep them healthy, and as they get taller they’re increasingly likely to uproot during storms. The center of the tree forms a mass of dried twigs and branches that are considered such a fire hazard that many communities officially caution residents against planting them.
Rent vs. Buy: Which is Cheaper for You?
September 13, 2012
Very cool info-graphic posted on Trulia today…had to share! Click here for the link: http://trends.truliablog.com/vis/rentvsbuy-summer2012/
You can adjust by area and if you are already itemizing on your taxes or not. For example, Middlesex County (on average) has a savings of $1030 a month or a 45% savings WOW!!! To read the full report with more interactive statistics go here: http://trends.truliablog.com/2012/09/rent-vs-buy-summer-2012/
Serving those who serve…special VA Home buying, selling and financing meeting
July 18, 2012
This is a GREAT opportunity to find out more about VA Home Loans in person! Active or retired service men and women are eligible for a variety of benefits around home ownership including purchasing with no down payment and no minimum credit scores. Home owners that currently have a VA home loan have a special marketing advantage! New opportunities to short sale with a VA Home Loan exist as well!
Refinance your existing VA Loan to a lower rate or a fixed rate and enjoy the savings!
Whatever your VA Home Loan need – we’re here in person to answer your questions and give you some free information. No obligation, no contracts – just stop in between 5pm and 7:30 on Thursday, 7/19 at the RE/MAX Professional Associates office at 246 Boston Turnpike in Shrewsbury (Route 9 east).
Deadant…dead ant…ants! No Ants!
June 4, 2012
No – it’s not Pink Panther but with all this rain and humid weather we have seen a lot of ANTS! Ants and other insects can be very damaging to your home – especially if a prospective home buyer sees one in your home during a showing!
Eliminate access to food, water, and shelter to stop wood-damaging pests from bugging you. Here are some quick, non toxic and effective ways to protect your home from ants and other damaging insects!
You’ll find the materials—hardware cloth ($8 per 6-inch-square swatch), door weather stripping ($8 per 17-foot roll of 7/8-inch v-strip polypropylene), O rings for faucets (pennies)—you need at most home improvement stores.
And many of the steps to impeding pests’ access—clearing overgrowth from around foundations and disposing of wood scraps and other debris that accumulate in garages and along sides of houses—are things every homeowner should do as part of regular house and yard maintenance.
The effort—a few hours or a weekend a few times a year—and cost of supplies are well worth it to avoid having to repair thousands of dollars in damage caused by pests.
Start outside
Termites eat wood and carpenter ants tunnel into wood to nest. So remove piles of wood and other debris from around your home. The same goes for rotted stumps and logs. Keep firewood at least 20 feet away and five inches off the ground. And never bury wood scraps or waste lumber.
Maintain at least 6 inches of clearance between soil and structural wood to prevent decay, which attracts carpenter ants, and to make it tougher for termites to find their next meal.
Keep it dry
Termites, carpenter ants, and powderpost beetles thrive in moist areas, so maintain a Sahara zone around your home’s perimeter.
In general, you shouldn’t have any vegetation—bushes, shrubs, vines, trees—touching the house, which can trap moisture that causes rot and attracts pests. Many pests use vegetation as a bridge between the ground to the walls and roof of your home.
Keep foundation plantings (shrubs, bushes, perennials) and wood mulch at least 18 inches away from the foundation. Prune trees, bushes, and vines that touch or overhang the house. And don’t plant anything close to your home that’s aphid-prone, such as peonies or roses. That’s like ringing the dinner bell for carpenter ants, which feed on honeydew, a sweet liquid produced by aphids.
Even an infrequent puddle close to the house can become an oasis for pests on the prowl for food, so take measures to direct water away from the house. Drain puddles, don’t overwater flower beds, point sprinklers away from the structure, and make sure the ground near the foundation slopes away from your home. Use drain tile if the site is flat.
Clean gutters so they don’t overflow. Use downspout extensions and splash blocks to direct rainwater runoff away from the foundation. Fix dripping faucets, water pipes, and air conditioning units. Even small leaks can contribute to wood rot and moist foundations that pests find irresistible.
Deny access into your home
The tiniest gap or crack can become an express lane for pests—and not only insects. “If you can push a pencil through a hole, a mouse can get through it,” says Greg Bauman, senior scientist with the National Pest Management Association.
Inspect your home’s envelope (walls, doors, windows, roof) for possible points of entry as well as moisture-inducing leaks. Use caulk or epoxy to seal any cracks in the foundation or gaps in the structure. Use steel wool or hardware cloth (1/4-inch wire mesh) to block any openings where wires, pipes, and cables come into or out of the house.
Should you detect any moisture damage, repair it promptly. Carpenter ants flock to deteriorating wood, but often move from decayed wood into sound wood as the colony expands. Replace punky fascia, soffits, and shingles. While you’re at it, paint weathered and/or unfinished wood to stop carpenter bees from drilling holes to build their nests.
Ventilate attics and crawl spaces, and make sure vents aren’t blocked by debris or vegetation. Good air flow prevents the buildup of moisture. Cover any exposed earth in the crawl space with a plastic vapor barrier.
Make sure roof and foundation vents are protected with hardware cloth. Install screens on all floor drains and windows. And while you’re at it, caulk or install weather-stripping around windows and doors as well. Close any gap between your garage door and the floor by attaching a door sweep. And keep the door closed.
Be inhospitable
If pests do get inside, they’ll usually die or skedaddle if they can’t find anything to eat or drink.
Carpenter ants will eat almost anything you do, but are especially fond of sweet and greasy food. Put kitchen waste in a sealed trash can, sweep up crumbs, and wipe up spills right away. Termites typically feed on wood, but will eat anything with cellulose, so never store paper or cardboard—or wood—in the crawl space.
Deal with interior moisture, too. Inspect the base of toilets, around bath tubs and shower stalls, and areas where pipes go through walls, such as under sinks. Repair any leaks and wrap any pipes that produce excess condensation.
Check behind and under washing machines and dishwashers, which are notorious for leaks, to make sure there’s no condensation or old moisture damage. Fix leaky faucets; in some cases, replacing a simple O ring might not only save water, but also stave off a potential invasion of pests.
Do you have questions about today’s real estate market?
May 16, 2012
Questions like…
- Do I need 20% down to avoid PMI?
- How long do I have to wait after a short sale or foreclosure?
- Do I need perfect credit?
- When does the market hit bottom?
- Where is the best place to buy?
- How much will I save?
- How much are closing costs and fees?
- What is the current rate?
We have answers!
Come to our FREE networking meeting about how to make the money you spend in rent WORK for you! Find out more about today’s real estate market, investment opportunities and the true cost of not being a home owner. No obligation, just show up with your questions. Join Wes and myself for a relaxed, no obligation meeting to find out the answers to the questions you have.
WHEN: Two dates to choose from: May 17th or 24th at 6pm to 7:30pm
WHERE: Prestige Home Mortgage 45 Lyman Street Westborough MA – Terrace Level
How Do Paint Colors Get Their Names?
May 6, 2012
What’s in a paint color name?
Whether it’s Harbor Fog, Just Peachy, or Van Buren Brown, an enticing paint color name has the power to excite, persuade, and ultimately close a sale.
But no matter how much Crème Brulee or Butterscotch Tempest may whet your appetite for freshly painted walls, your satisfaction is going to come down to good surface prep, and selecting a top-performing paint.
Do paint names come from thin air?
Creating paint names is more serendipity than science. And, it turns out, no two paint namers name alike.
“There’s no book on this; very few people do this, and we all do things differently,” says Mary Lawlor, manager of color marketing for Kelly-Moore Paints. In a typical year, a professional paint namer may be asked to come up with hundreds of new names — all checked against a master databank of paint names for originality.
Flowers, which stimulate scent and sight, are wellsprings of inspiration. Places, such as the French Riviera or Monte Carlo, evoke enviable lifestyles. And fabrics — satin, cashmere, even mohair — recall texture and feel.
But nothing stimulates the color imagination like food, which adds taste to the mix of memories.
“Strawberry Parfait is good to taste, as well as look at,” says Leatrice Eiseman of the Pantone Color Institute. “Pink Flambe has an exotic connotation.”
Name aside, results matter
Name aside, results matter
No matter what it’s called, a paint by any other name is still a paint. To get results you love, buy quality paints and take the time to prepare surfaces properly.
Top-rated interior paints recommended by Consumer Reportsinclude:
- Benjamin Moore Aura Satin ($60/gal)
- Behr Premium Plus Ultra Satin ($33/gal)
- Kilz Casual Colors Satin ($27/gal)
For good surface prep, follow these guidelines:
- Gather up the right painting tools, especially brushes and drop cloths.
- Know your paints, including which sheen to choose, and how low-VOC paints protect indoor air quality.
- Fixing and cleaning walls before painting is essential; be sure to patch drywall holes and remove stains before painting.
If you could name a paint color, what would it be?
Real Estate and *stuff * 