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Project #1: Install Rigid Flower Bed Edging
The setup: A crisp edge where the lawn meets the flower beds looks great and eases mowing. Opt for rigid edging — the flexible plastic stuff looks amateurish from day one.
Use a charged garden hose to lay out a smooth curve.
Tip: A “charged” garden hose full of water makes for a smoother, kink-free curve; charge up by turning on the spigot but leaving the sprayer off.
With the hose as your guide, use a lawn edger or spade to cut away excess sod and make an incision for the edging. Tap in the edging with a rubber mallet and add the stakes. Trim the edging with a hacksaw, using a speed square to mark for cuts.
Specs and cost: Steel — $1.25 per lineal foot; aluminum — $2.25 plf; rigid plastic or fiberglass — $1.65 plf.
Tools: Garden hose, flour or powdered chalk, lawn edger or spade, shovel, speed square, hacksaw, rubber mallet, hammer.
Project #2: Add an Earth Berm
The setup: Create an eye-catching front yard feature by shaping a few cubic yards of topsoil into an undulating berm. Topped off with mulch, groundcover, and bushes, a berm adds interest and buffers street noise.
Use a charged hose to outline the berm. Remove sod a couple of feet in from the perimeter. Add a few mounds, but max out at 3 feet high.
Specs and cost: Three cubic yards of soil is enough for a good-sized berm. Expect to pay $15-$20 per cubic yard and $15–$60 for delivery — a total of $60-$120.
Tip: Don’t be tempted by those bags of topsoil at the home center: At $2.50 per cubic foot, a cubic yard (27 cubic feet) will end up costing you $67.50.
Have a cubic yard of mulch dropped off as well ($15–$20). A dozen periwinkle starts, plus a few boxwood bushes and evergreens, will set you back another $140.
Total for an 18-foot-long berm: $215–$280.
Tools: Wheelbarrow, spade, shovel, garden rake, trowel.
Time: A day to form the berm, another half-day for planting and mulching.
The setup: A stacked flagstone wall for your raised beds has an old-world look that mellows any landscape. Best of all, you don’t have to be stonemason to build one.
Begin by laying out the wall with stakes and mason’s line. Tamp a level bed of sand for the first course. As you add courses, stagger joints at least 3 inches. Set each course back ¼-inch so the wall leans backward slightly. Once finished, back the wall with landscaping fabric before filling with topsoil.
Specs and cost: Choose a stone of consistent thickness. Flagstone might be limestone, sandstone, shale — any rock that splits into slabs. A ton of 2-inch-thick stone is enough for a wall 10 feet long and 12 inches high.
Cost: About $300 for stones and sand.
Tip: Permanent retaining walls should be backed by pea gravel for drainage. In some locations, walls taller than 3 feet high require a building permit.
Tools: Stakes and mason’s line, spade, shovel, a 2-by-4 that’s 8 feet long, a 4-foot level, garden rake, tamper.
Time: 1 day for a 10-foot-long wall that’s 12 inches high.
Project #4: Install a Flagstone Path
The setup: For a welcoming addition to your yard, add a flagstone pathway. Use a charged garden hose to mark a meandering path about 3 feet wide. Arrange flagstones within the path so they are 2–4 inches apart and mark their location with sprinkled flour.
Tip: Sprinkling flour over the stones creates a “shadow” outline on the ground. When you remove the stones, you’ll have perfect outlines for cutting away the sod.
Cut away 3–4 inches of sod beneath each stone, add a layer of sand, and level the flagstones as you place them.
Specs and cost: For a 40-foot path about 3 feet wide, plan on 2 tons of flagstones and about a cubic yard of coarse sand. Cost: About $550.
Tools: Garden hose, flour, spade, trowel, level.
Time: 1 day for a 40-foot path.
The setup: Installing a masonry surround for a tree eases mowing and looks great. All it takes is digging a circular trench, adding some sand, and installing brick or stone.
Tip: To create a nice, even circle around the base of your tree, tie a big loop of rope around your tree. Adjust the length of the loop so when you pull it taut, the free end is right where you’d like the outer edge of the surround to be. Set your spade inside the loop with the handle plumb — straight up and down. Now, as you move around the tree, the loop of rope keeps the spade exactly the same distance from the base of the tree, creating a nice circle.
Use the spade to cut into the sod all the way around the tree. Remove the rope, and dig out a circular trench about 8 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Add a layer of sand. Set bricks at an angle for a pleasing saw-tooth effect or lay them end-to-end. Fill the surround with 2–4 inches of mulch.
Curious what trees to plant? Our popular slideshow tells you which trees you should never plant in your yard.
Specs and cost: This is an instance where buying small quantities of materials at the home center makes sense. Brick pavers cost $.50-$1 each — figure about 20 per tree. A bag of mulch, enough for one tree, costs $2.50.
Tools: Rope, spade, trowel.
Time: 3 hours per tree.
Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac will offer a new, simplified loan modification program to help troubled borrowers avoid foreclosure and stay in their homes.
Beginning July 1, borrowers who are at least 90 days delinquent on a Fannie Mae- or Freddie Mac-guaranteed mortgage will be allowed to lower their monthly payments and modify their mortgage without having to fill out financial or hardship documentation.
Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac guarantee about half of U.S. home mortgages.
Most foreclosure avoidance programs, including the federal government’s Home Affordable Modification Program (HAMP), make you fill out financial forms documenting your income, expenses, and employment. Troubled borrowers say their lenders often lose that paperwork, while lenders often claim borrowers aren’t completing the paperwork.
The new Streamlined Modification Initiative program would also:
Those two changes will reduce the typical program participant’s monthly payment by about 30%.
If you owe more than your home is worth, you also won’t have to pay interest on as much as 30% of your outstanding mortgage amount.
Once you’re in the program, you’ll then have to make three on-time trial payments at the new rate. Do that and your mortgage will be permanently lowered under the new Streamlined Modification initiative.
If you opt for the program, you’ll be encouraged to document your income and financial hardship. That’s because the traditional foreclosure avoidance programs will likely net you a better deal.
The program, which expires Aug. 1, 2015, is open only to home owners with loans owned or guaranteed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.
If you qualify for the program, your lender must offer it to you. If you think you qualify and aren’t automatically offered the program, you can call your lender to ask about the program after July 2013.
To qualify:
To see if your mortgage is backed by Fannie or Freddie, go HERE
Free seeds and starter plants for your vegetable garden happily live in your refrigerator and pantry. Plant a potato and you’ll harvest a bagful; plant a single horseradish root, and you’ll grow a field of the eye-watering spice.
Theoretically, every fruit or vegetable seed in your kitchen can germinate and deliver baby produce. But some store-bought veggies are hybrids and produce offspring that look nothing like their parents. Others are irradiated to prevent insect infestation, or sprayed with anti-sprouting chemicals to prevent spoilage, which wrecks their ability to go forth and multiply.
Your best bet is to shop for produce in an organic market. Seeds (and tuberous roots) from chemical-free produce yield plants that sprout readily and look like their folks.
Here’s a look at some kitchen leftovers you can plant this spring.
Celery: The next time you chop celery, save the crown (the bottom), place it in a shallow bowl of water until the center leaves turn green and sprout, then transplant it into your garden. Or, just plant the crown straight from crisper into garden, keeping the top of the crown at soil level. Not only is celery a yummy vegetable, it attracts beneficial insects that keep unwanted bugs at bay.
Garlic: Separate cloves and plant the largest ones pointy-side up, under about 2 inches of rich, well-drained soil. Plant garlic around roses to reduce black spot and sooty mold.
Poppies: For a brilliant floral display, shake poppy seeds directly from the container onto well-drained soil. Lightly press into the ground and cover with a dusting of soil. Thin seedlings to about 10 inches apart.
Horseradish: In the fall, plant the tuberous horseradish roots horizontally under 2 inches of soil that’s been well-worked with compost. The plant is invasive and spreads quickly, so plant at the end of garden rows or in areas where they have room to wander. Harvest with a pitchfork in late fall.
Ginger: Select a plump ginger rhizome with many small, growing buds. Plant just under rich soil in a spot with filtered sunlight and wind protection. Avoid planting in low-lying areas, or in spots with poor drainage.
Sesame: These seeds grow into flowering plants that are resistant to heat, drought, and pests. Press seeds 1 inch into well-draining soil. Water lightly for 3-5 days after planting, then as needed. Be sure not to overwater, because sesame plants do not like to sit in wet soil. Harvest in about 150 days after seed pods open and seeds are thoroughly dry.
Beans and peas: It’s easy-peasy to plant any dried bean or pea. Just push the seed under 1-2 inches of loose, rich soil in a location that gets at least 6 hours of sun each day. If your soil is hard clay, grow beans and peas in a container.
Potatoes: If you’ve ever kept a potato too long in a bowl, you’ve seen the plants begin to sprout. Place the potato in a 10-inch-deep hole, and cover with rich soil. As the plant grows, continue to mound soil around its stem. Harvest potatoes in late fall.
Tomatoes: If you love heirloom tomatoes, cut them in half to scrape out their seeds. “Ferment” seeds in a glass jar with about a cup of water for 2-4 days. When a foamy mold appears, rinse and dry seeds on a paper plate. Start tomato plants indoors in containers, then transplant to a garden spot with full sun

Casings are the moldings that go around the window frames. They are installed outside the house to seal the window frame to the house blocking cold air from entering the interior.
Inside, casings are the finishing touch to a window installation, the same as baseboards and door moldings finish off a room. They generally match the same moldings used in those applications so the room has a cohesive look. Outside, casings match the style of the home so there are countless designs to choose from.
Traditional homes tend to have simple casings flanked by shutters on the sides. Victorian-style homes might feature thicker and more elaborate carved designs in keeping with the gingerbread look that often appears on these types of homes.
Here are the most common types of casings.
Moldings that surround all four sides of your windows are often called complete casings. They can be a simple layer of molding or multiple layers made up of stacked moldings that trim out the windows, making them appear more decorative and appealing. Interior casings often match or complement the interior moldings inside the rest of your house.
Mostly utilitarian rather than decorative, a low-profile casing that lays flat against the siding of your house or the interior walls lends a finished look and helps visually tie the window to the house. It blocks cold air from entering the house and keeps warm, heated air inside the house.
Simple single-layer casings cost about $5 per foot.
These types of casings offer the most options. They can either surround the entire window or sit as a pediment above the window. Many companies now offer plastic or composite materials that are ready-made and offer the look or layered moldings without the carpentry skills needed to construct a layered look.
These one-piece casings can be combined to beef up the look. They look especially fitting on classic homes, like traditional and Victorian styles.
Costs vary, but they generally run about $10 per foot for basic styles. More elaborate layered looks and combinations up the cost.
Minimal and clean lined, modern casings often match the color of the wood or material of the rest of the window, blending in rather than standing out. On modern homes, the glass takes center stage in the design of the windows rather than the moldings.
Costs run from about $1 to $5 per foot.
Simple in style, traditional casings are similar to low-profile casings in that they generally suit older homes and lay flat against the exterior and interior walls. They can be made up of a single layer of wood or composite material and often sport a simple design, such as a simple stool molding supported by an apron along the bottom of the window, a slightly protruded header molding and perhaps a more decorative or fluted column design flanking the window frame.
Costs vary but expect to pay about $1 to $5 per foot for this type of casing.
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RE/MAX Professional Associates Amy L Mullen Realtor CPA CDPE MBA 508-799-4900 (Office) 508-784-0504 (Direct) http://www.amymullenrealestate.com |
RE/MAX Professional Associates 246 Boston Turnpike Shrewsbury, MA 01545 |
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©2013 Imprev, Inc. |
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CUSTOM finishings! |
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Most of the finish work is complete! All finishings in the house STAY! Hardwoods…granite…custom bathrooms…jacuzzi tub…views from the Master bedroom!
Anderson windows! HEATED basement with build out plans! THREE CAR GARAGE! |
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MOVE-IN and finish it off! |
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Chance of a lifetime!
We don't see short sales like this every day! |
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All offers due by 6pm Monday! |
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RE/MAX Professional Associates Amy L Mullen Realtor CPA CDPE MBA 508-799-4900 (Office) 508-784-0504 (Direct) http://www.amymullenrealestate.com |
![]() |
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©2013 Imprev, Inc. |
RE/MAX Professional Associates 246 Boston Turnpike Shrewsbury, MA 01545 |
These stair treads are MDF covered in stained brown paper, giving the overall effect of cork. All images in this post: Rachael from Lovely Crafty Home
When I first saw pictures of Rachael Evans’ stairway upgrade, I honed in on the textured wallpaper she applied to the risers beneath what looked like cork treads.
But as I read Rachael’s post, I realized the treads were not cork or burled wood. They were MDF covered with stained brown paper — a decoupage technique that made the plain treads look expensive and elegant. It’s faux flooring for less than $100.
Brown-Paper Stairs 101
This time-intensive but low-cost refinishing technique requires:
Rachael has printed a complete tutorial on how to lay down brown paper flooring. Here’s the basic process.
1. Remove carpet and padding.

2. Tape off baseboards to protect the paint.
3. Tear paper into 6- to 12-inch-diameter pieces; the smaller the pieces, the more leathery the floor will look. (Pieces with straight edges are good for applying next to walls.) Crumple into balls and toss into a contractor’s plastic bag until you need them.
4. Dilute glue with water using a ratio of 3 parts water to 1 part glue. Only dilute enough glue to use in one session.
5. With a paintbrush, brush treads with undiluted glue.
6. Dunk 5-6 balls of paper at a time into the diluted glue; squeeze out excess.
7. Lay paper on treads, overlapping a little. Brush the diluted glue mix over the paper to flatten and remove wrinkles.
8. Allow to dry for about 12 hours.
9. Apply stain, and let that dry for 48 hours.
10. Apply 12 coats of water-based polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats.
Wallpaper Risers
Once you’ve finished refinishing the treads, you can refresh the risers by applying paintable textured wallpaper. Rachael used an embossed print called anaglypta ($20 for 22 sq. ft.), which looks like vintage metal ceiling tiles.
To give the project a finished look, she glued a piece of trim onto the bottom of each riser.

Lessons Learned
1. Work on every other stair, so you can use the stairway while you’re refinishing. The project will take four days to complete, so you don’t want to be without your stairway for that long.
2. For best results, practice the technique on scrap wood before trying it on the stairs.
3. For a light, natural color, skip the stain.
4. Allow everything to dry completely before proceeding to the next step. Patience is key to good results!
Thank you Rachael!