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By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
What to do NOW to help your lawn survive Winter’s worst.
Everybody thinks spring is the time to work on lawns. In fact, fall is the primo time to give your lawn some TLC.
That’s the overarching advice from Jeff Schneider, the horticulturist in charge of maintaining the gorgeous Smithsonian Gardens in Washington, D.C. So gorgeous, in fact, they’re actually considered ”outdoor museums.”
So he knows what he’s talking about. And he can’t emphasize enough that we’ve been fooled into thinking that spring is when we need to be feeding and nurturing our lawns.
“Fall is the biggest missed opportunity,” Schneider says. “All the money you spend on your lawn, you should spend in the fall.”
His advice on what to do in the fall? These seven things:
#1 Resuscitate Your Grass:
Running barefoot across the cool grass in summer might feel amazing to you — but not to your lawn.
From your lawn’s perspective, “It’s like someone sitting on your chest,” Schneider says, because the pressure of running and walking on your lawn causes it to compact. “It’s hard to breathe.”
The solution is to aerate.
Aerating your lawn punches holes in the turf — you’ve probably seen those weird-looking dirt plugs sitting on grass — which relieves compaction and gives new seeds a safe place to germinate.
You can rent an aeration machine, which is kind of like pushing a mower, and do the job yourself for $40 to $80. But if you’ve got better things to do, you can pay a lawn service to do it for you for about $110 per 5,000 square feet.
#2 Fertilize and Reseed:
Lawns love fall’s coolish weather for stretching out their roots. Help yours do so by filling in its bare spots and spreading around some fertilizer.
“The turf will continue to grow roots through much of December and develop a deep root system before you go into the hard winter months,” Schneider says.
The best part? Come spring, your lawn will be lush and lovely from the get-go. You probably won’t have to do a thing, except start mowing.
BTW: Home-grown fertilizer from your compost pile is a great, almost-free way to fertilize. Spread it lightly over your lawn, so that it can soak into the turf and feed it throughout winter.
#3 Plant a Tree — or Three:
Planting trees in your yard is a great way to boost the value of your home.
Again, fall’s the time to put in the work. The cool nights and warm days in autumn give newly planted trees enough time to send out roots to become established before winter.
If you plant in the spring, you risk heat waves that can seriously stress out your trees before they have the chance to set roots. The exception is broad-leaf evergreens — like hollies — which are vulnerable to winter winds.
#4 Stop Raking Leaves:
NEVER RAKE LEAVES AGAIN. Yes, we did just say that.
Instead of raking and bagging leaves, just mow and shred ‘em. They’ll decompose over winter and feed the lawn.
“If they’re not too thick, I run them over with the mower and leave them in place,” says Schneider. How thick is too thick? “If you still can’t see at least 50% of your turf after you chop them up, rake up the rest.” (OK, so we meant almost never.)
If you do need to rake, run them through a shredder and add to your compost pile. Or just leave them in a corner of the yard and let them decompose over winter into leaf mold, which is a great spring meal for your garden.
#5 Give Tree Branches an Exam:
In fall, when your leaves are all gold and crimson, it’s easy to spot sick or dead branches — they’re the ones with no leaves.
Dead limbs stress trees and can fall on your head (ouch!) or your roof ($!) in a stiff wind.
Mark those branches with ribbons or spray paint so that when all the branches are undressed in winter, you’ll know which ones to hack off to promote regrowth in spring.
BTW: To keep branches in their best shape, spread a ½-inch layer of compost around the trunk out to the canopy line — “The farther the better,” Schneider says — which feeds the tree during winter and helps it leaf out in spring.
#6 Plant Some Stunners:
Just because your trees are barren in fall, doesn’t mean your yard has to look like crap, which wrecks curb appeal.
After the last heat spell of summer, plant cold-weather annuals — pansies, mums, and violas — in the front along the foundation to provide some color and interest throughout fall (and even in winter, if it doesn’t get too cold).
Some will even re-bloom in spring, meaning less work for you.
#7 Set Your Garden Goals:
Fall is a great time to scroll through all the shots of your yard on your Instagram feed and think about what needs work.
Where are the bald spots?
Which plants look great together?
Which plants should be separated at rebirth next spring?
While the successes and failures are fresh in your mind, jot down a to-do list for when the weather warms up. Then look forward to an easier spring than last year because you’ve done most of the prep now. Sweet.
By: Alaina Tweddale
A tiny $2 prevention could save big bucks later.
Wintry weather is great at turning up problems you didn’t even know you had. Like that first snowy night in front of your fireplace that you thought was pure bliss — until you noticed a leak in the ceiling corner, which apparently was caused by a lack of insulation How were you supposed to know that?
Here are seven things to do now to avoid costly wintertime mistakes:
#1 Buy a $2 Protector for Your Outdoor Faucet:
The cost if you don’t: Up to $15,000 and a whole lot of grief
It’s amazing what a little frozen water can do damage-wise. An inch of water in your basement can cost up to $15,000 to pump out and dry out. And, yet, it’s so easy to prevent, especially with outdoor faucets, which are the most susceptible to freezing temps.
The simplest thing to do is to remove your garden hose from your outdoor faucet and drain it. Then add a faucet protector to keep cold air from getting into your pipes. They’re really cheap (some are under $2; the more expensive ones are still less than $10). “Get these now,” says Danny Lipford, home improvement expert and host of the “Today’s Homeowner” television and radio shows. “When the weatherman says we’ve got cold coming, they’ll sell out in minutes.”
While you’re at it, make sure any exposed pipes in an unheated basement or garage are insulated, too, or you’ll face the same pricey problem.
Wrap pipes with foam plumbing insulation — before the weather drops. It’s cheap, too, just like the faucet cover (only $1 for six feet of polyethylene insulation). And it’s an easy DIY project, as long as you can reach the pipes.
#2 Add Insulation to Prevent Ice Dams:
The cost if you don’t: $500 — if you’re lucky; a lot more if you’re not.
Those icicles make your home look so picturesque, you just gotta take a few pics. But you better make them quick. Those icicles can literally be a dam problem. (Yes, dam — not the curse word that sounds the same. )
Icicles are a clear sign that you’ve got an ice dam, which is exactly what it sounds like: a buildup of ice on your gutter or roof that prevents melting snow and ice from flowing through your gutters. That’s really bad news because these icy blocks can lead to expensive roofing repairs.
Depending on where you live, expect to pay at least $500 for each ice dam to be steamed off. Leave the ice and you risk long-term damage, which could ultimately cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars to your roof, depending on what type of shingles you have and the size of the damaged area.
How to prevent them? Insulation. “Ice dams, icicles, and ice buildup on the gutters is a symptom of not enough insulation in the attic,” says Chris Johnson, owner of Navarre True Value and several other stores in the Twin Cities area.
And “you need to have at least 14 inches of insulation in your attic, no matter where you live,” says Lipford. If you live in a colder climate, you’ll need more.
If you don’t have the cash to insulate, heated gutter cables, which run between $50 and $150 each, can be a less expensive alternative when temporarily affixed to areas prone to ice damming, Johnson suggests.
#3 Clean Your Gutters:
The cost if you don’t: You really don’t want to be in a position to find out.
It can be so tempting to skip gutter cleanups as winter nears. It seems like as soon as you clear your gutters, they clog right back up again. So what’s the point?
Well, if it looks like you’re living inside a waterfall when it rains, water is missing your gutter system completely. It’s being directed to your foundation instead. And a water-damaged foundation is never, ever cheap to fix.
A contractor can plug foundation cracks for $1,500 to $3,000, says David Verbofsky, director of training for exterior home products manufacturer Ply Gem. But a worse problem, one that requires a foundation excavation or rebuild, can set you back (gulp) $30,000 or more.
Suddenly, cleaning your gutters a few times each fall doesn’t seem so bad. A pro can do the work for anywhere between $70 and $250, depending on the size of your gutter system.
#4 Seal Up Leaks:
The cost if you don’t: Nights where you never feel warm, despite sky-high heating bills.
“If it were possible to take every crack on the outside of a typical home and drag them together, you’d have the equivalent of a three-by-three window open all the time,” says Lipford. Yikes.
Yet cracks can be easily and inexpensively sealed with a simple tube of caulk, and it’s available in hundreds of colors to match your window panes, outside siding, and even brick. Not sure where to caulk? Look for visible cracks around:
•Window sills
•Baseboards
•Fireplace or dryer vents
•Anywhere something inside pokes a hole to the outside
#5 Program Your Thermostat:
The cost if you don’t: Money you could spend on something else besides heating.
We all know we should, but we seem to have some mental block when it comes to programming our thermostats to align with our schedules. It’s not that hard, and sometimes all it takes is buying a new one that suits you. (Like maybe a Wi-Fi one that’ll give you a little money-saving thrill each time you swipe your app.)
“From a cost-savings perspective, a programmable thermostat is a great investment,” Lipford says — as much as 10% off your energy bill, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.
#6 Get a Furnace Tune-Up:
The cost if you don’t: A furnace that’ll die years before it should — and higher energy bills.
“Forget to service your furnace and you could easily cut five years off the life of your system,” says Lipford, who added that five years is a full third of the typical unit’s life span. New units can cost around $4,000 installed, making the $125 annual maintenance charge a no-brainer.
While you’re at it, don’t forget to replace the furnace filter, which cleans the air in your home, and also keeps your furnace coils cleaner, which can shave up to 15% off your energy bill. Johnson suggests at least every three months, but possibly as often as monthly if you have allergies, pets, or smoke cigarettes at home.
#7 Get a Fireplace Inspection:
The cost if you don’t: Possibly your life — and your home
“A cozy fire is great, but if you don’t maintain your chimney, a fire can cost you thousands of dollars,” says Johnson, not to mention the risk to you and your family.
Schedule your maintenance appointment as early as you can.”If you wait until the busy season, you’ll have a hard time getting them out there, you’ll pay more, and you’ll get a lower quality job,” says Lipford.
Without the right plan in place, kitchen remodels can overwhelm even veteran homeowners. Fortunately, developing a renovation strategy isn’t difficult — just start with your budget! Here’s a look at the primary cost considerations to include in your remodeling plan.
COUNTERTOPS:
Your countertops are your kitchen’s functional centerpiece. Here’s a look at the installation costs associated with each material:
Affordable materials:
• Laminate: $3,000 – $4,000 Laminate is affordable and offers a huge variety colors and designs. Some laminate is vulnerable to chipping, scratching, fading and aging. Replacing old or damaged laminate is cheap and even DIY-able.
Mid-range materials:
• Butcher Block: $1,700 – $3,100 Wooden countertops go well with any design style and offer DIY-friendly installations. Butcher block countertops require regular maintenance and are susceptible to heat and moisture.
• Solid Surface: $2,200 – $5,000 Solid surface countertops mimic the look of more expensive materials at a fraction of the price. Solid surface is also resistant to scratches, burns and water damage.
High-end materials:
• Stainless Steel: $3,000 – $6,000 Stainless steel is the ideal material for hardcore cooks or modern décor. While stainless is practically indestructible, avoiding scratches and smears can be difficult.
• Granite: $3,100 – $4,500 Granite doesn’t require massive amounts of upkeep and when compared to other high-end materials, its costs are reasonable.
• Quartz: $5,900 – $14,000 Silestone or CaesarStone (the brand names typically associated with quartz) are popular alternatives to marble and granite. While quartz is still expensive, it doesn’t require the sealing or constant maintenance that its competitors do.
CABINETS:
Your cabinets are one of the primary features that will define the aesthetics and functionality of your new kitchen. How much you pay for your new cabinets will depend on their material and fabrication. Here’s a look at the costs associated with each:
Affordable materials:
• Wood Veneer: $1,930 – $13,000 Veneers are strips of wood glued to a plywood or particleboard frame. Wood veneer cabinets aren’t as durable as solid wood, but they do offer similar looks without the additional cost. The construction of veneer cabinets makes them susceptible to humidity and excessive moisture.
Mid-range materials:
• Laminate: $4,000 – $15,000 Laminate construction is similar to veneer fabrication: Laminate sheets are glued to a plywood or particleboard frame. Laminate cabinets come in both high-pressure and low-pressure options. High-pressure laminate is higher quality and longer lasting. Formica and Pionite are sought-after high-end laminate brands. Like wood veneer, excessive moisture can damage laminate cabinets.
High-end materials:
Fabrication Costs:
Cabinet fabrication breaks down into three categories. Here’s a look at each:
Affordable:
• Stock: $60 – $200 per square foot. Stock cabinets are pre-fabricated and sold as a ready-to-install unit. Stock construction offers fewer design and layout alternatives, but costs less than semi-custom or custom designs. Quality and measurement issues are sometimes an issue with stock alternatives. Always measure your kitchen before purchasing your cabinets.
Mid-range:
• Semi-custom: $100 – $650 per square foot. Semi-custom cabinets require a larger budget, but offer custom sizing, aesthetics and more design options than stock alternatives. Pre-fabricated elements still exist within with semi-custom cabinets, so it’s important to measure your kitchen before making a purchase.
High-end:
Hardware Costs
Cabinet hardware is an important part of creating a seamless look in your new kitchen. Here’s a look at popular hardware materials and their costs per knob:
Cabinet Installation Costs: $1,971 – $7,202
The construction and size of your new cabinets will determine your installation costs. Large, custom or oddly shaped cabinets will take longer to install and require a larger a budget. Pre-fabricated and conventional designs are easier to install and will cost less.
FLOORING:
Your flooring will play a key role in defining the aesthetics and practicality of your kitchen. The price of new kitchen flooring will break down into installation and material costs. Here’s a look at your options.
Flooring Material Costs
The costs of flooring materials vary widely. Here’s a breakdown of popular flooring options according to price:
Affordable materials:
Mid-range materials:
• Ceramic and Porcelain Tile: $1.30 – $7.50 per square foot. Tile is a long-lasting, low-maintenance option that comes in a variety of looks and price points. Tile is vulnerable to cracking, chipping and grout discoloration. Most tile and grout upkeep is simple and even DY-able. Tile is also perfect for creating backsplashes and easy-to-clean walls near sinks or prep areas.
High-end materials:
• Laminate: $5.50 per square foot. Laminate flooring is designed to provide the look of higher-end materials without the extra cost. The composition of laminate also makes it resistant to scratches and dents. Laminate cannot be refinished or stained. A complete replacement is necessary for a new look or to repair major damage.
Flooring Installation Costs: $1,524 – $4,241
Installation costs are a major part of your overall flooring budget. How much you spend will depend on the size of your kitchen and the type of flooring you choose. You can DIY your flooring installation to lower costs if you have the experience, but do-it-yourself mistakes can lead to pricey mistakes and repairs. It’s best to hire a qualified pro to handle your flooring installation.
ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS:
• Appliances Installation Costs: $115 – $274. The price of appliance installations varies based on the type and size of the installation. Swapping outdated appliances with newer, similarly sized replacements will require minimal installation time and eliminate the need for major renovations. Moving the location of appliances will require rerouting utilities and moving cabinets and countertops, which will significantly increase your costs.
• Fixture Installations: (lighting) $141 – $711, (plumbing) $154 – $331. No kitchen remodel is complete without new lighting and plumbing fixtures. These installation costs are typically low if you’re replacing existing fixtures. But adding new fixture locations will require moving electrical and plumbing systems, which will increase costs.
• Plumbing and Electrical Lines. Many kitchen remodels require moving water, electricity and gas lines. Be sure to outline any utility relocation in your plans before you begin your remodel. Moving utilities will increase your remodel budget and require the help of a pro.
By: Lara Edge
Strategies tidy homeowners use (like color) to make things look pretty.
Some people have a special knack for making everything seem so put-together in their kitchen, so prettily organized — without buying expensive things.
How do they do it?
They Put ‘Like’ and ‘Like’ Together:
Like goes with like, whether it’s a similar shape or a similar function. In the case above, it’s both. Lids are together, organized by shape. The bottoms are together, also organized by shape. And see how the colors are grouped? So satisfying.
They Use Color to Help Them Organize:
Green glasses go on top…
Blue plates go on the bottom…
Brown mugs go on the right…
Color makes things pretty. By putting like-colors together, you create a sense of order and a way of mentally picturing where something is.
Plus, it makes a large pantry look put-together.
Like [a] mint green and gold one:
Or [a] black and white one:
Black and white is probably the most flexible color scheme. In the pantry above, the white pulls together the different canister shapes. The black wire baskets tie into the color scheme to help “tidy” the chaos that is supermarket food.
They Use a Grid:
Whether it’s easy to see or not.
They Use Clear, Same-Shape Containers for Staples:
Makes it easy to see what you have, and how much. Time saved.
They Use Consistent Labeling:
Imagine how much messier that drawer would look if the labels and jars were all different shapes, sizes, and colors. (Now only if they were alphabetized…).
But it’s [the] fridge… And [the] freezer drawers.
…that have us swooning.
Shape, function, containers, grid, and the color (wow!). Makes you want to clean out your fridge now.
By: Stacey Freed
Why now’s the perfect time to replace appliances.
The temps are starting to drop; the smell of wood smoke is in the air.
Temps are more chilly than warm. That’s when veteran homeowners know it’s time to do these six things if they want to avoid grief or overspending:
#1 Buy Appliances:
Whisper to them. Do a rain dance. Whatever it takes to get your old appliances to wait until fall to go on the fritz. Manufacturers bring out their latest models during the fall, and store owners offer big sales on appliances they want to move out — like last year’s most popular dishwasher. So September, October, and November are great months to buy.
But October is right in the middle — when there’s still plenty of selection, and retailers might be more willing to haggle.
Refrigerators are the exception because new models don’t come out until spring.
#2 Switch the Direction of Ceiling Fans:
Most have a switch to allow the ceiling fan blades to rotate either clockwise or counterclockwise — one way pushes air down to create a nice breeze and the other sucks air up, helping to distribute the heat. Think counterclockwise when it’s warm and clockwise when it’s cool.
#3 Clean Windows:
Daylight is about to dwindle so why not get as much of it as you can? Clean off all the bugs, dust, and grime from your windows while the weather is still warm enough to do so. For streak-free windows, combine ¼-cup of white vinegar with ¼ to ½ teaspoon of eco-friendly dish detergent and 2 cups of water.
If window cleaning isn’t a DIY job at your home, schedule a professional window cleaner (who, unlike most of us, is able to do it even when temperatures plummet) before the end of the month. The closer it gets to the holidays, the busier they get. Bright sunshine on winter’s darkest days makes it totally worthwhile.
#4 Schedule a Heating Unit Checkup:
To ensure your family will be able to feel their toes all winter, schedule early in the month for your heating unit to be serviced. As temperatures drop, service companies get busier.
Whether you hire your heating company’s technician or a contractor to do it, they’ll clean soot and corrosion from the combustion chamber, replace filters, and check the whole system for leaks, clogs, or damage. Nothing pairs with a pending blizzard better than the assurance that you’ll be weathering the storm with warm air piping through the vents and cocoa in hand.
#5 Get a Chimney Sweep to Inspect the Fireplace:
It’s time to dust off and sweep the chimney Best to hire someone who knows wood-burning fireplaces. A professional chimney sweep will ensure your wood burning fireplace burns more efficiently and will help prevent chimney fires and carbon monoxide poisoning during the winter. So yeah, it’s pretty important.
Tip: If you don’t already have a chimney cap, this is also the time to add one to stop wild outdoor critters from crawling down it — and (yikes!) into your house.
#6 Insulate Exposed Pipes:
If you’ve ever dealt with a burst pipe, you know it’s a sad, wet disaster worth preventing. To avoid the stressful (not to mention, expensive) ordeal, prep your home’s exposed pipes with foam or heat tape — choosing which one will work best with your climate — to keep those pipes toasty. Remember: The most at-risk pipes are often those in unheated areas such as an attics, crawl spaces, and garages, so secure those first.
By: Jennifer Nelson
There is one paint color you must avoid at all costs (see #5).
A clean, well-planned, and stunning bathroom is every homeowner’s goal. But creating it can be a bit of a sticky wicket.
All that water, humidity, and artificial lighting, and those tight corners make the space a real challenge. Don’t make it worse by wasting money on materials that won’t withstand the task or will need replacing when they don’t work out. Dodge bad bathroom decisions by avoiding these five things:
#1 Wallpaper:
In a high-steam area such as a bathroom, wallpaper may start to peel in a few years, according to some designers. In fact, steam is used to strip old wallpaper off walls.
Despite the many photos of stylish, wallpapered bathrooms in magazines, unless it’s a half-bath or guest bath that’s seldom used, skip it. Really want the unique look wallpaper provides? Try a solid vinyl wall covering instead. It won’t allow moisture to seep through.
#2 Laminate Flooring:
Love the look and affordability of laminate flooring? Use it in another room. Water and laminate floors don’t mix. Even tiny amounts of water will seep between the planks, causing them to expand, peel, swell, and lift from the floor.
Even laminate manufacturers advise against installing in high moisture areas. The good news? There are plenty of other products out there that work extremely well in bathrooms. Take another look at linoleum. It’s eco-friendly, budget-friendly, and comes in a wide variety of looks.
#3 Slippery or Glossy Tile or Stone:
Many ceramic, porcelain, and stone floors will become slippery in wet conditions. The more polished a tile, the more likely it will become slippery when wet.
Solution: Select your bathroom floor surface carefully, vetting each against slippery conditions. Look for tiles certified to meet slip-resistance standards specified by the Americans with Disabilities Act.
#4 Wall-to-Wall Carpet:
Carpet, while soft and comfy, isn’t ideal flooring in a powder room. Not only is the ick factor apparent, especially around the toilet, but mold and mildew can build up, which can cause health issues. In fact, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention specifically advises against carpeting bathrooms to avoid mold exposure.
If you really want the cozy touch of carpet in the bathroom, fluffy bath mats add color and comfort — and can be regularly laundered.
#5 Yellow Paint:
When selecting paint colors, remember that color will appear more intense on your bathroom walls than it would in most other rooms, especially if the bathroom relies heavily on artificial lighting.
“In that smaller space, where the mirror multiplies the impact of the lighting, the walls tend to reflect and magnify color from other walls,” says Amy Bell, an interior decorator and owner of Red Chair Home Interiors in Cary, N.C. Be especially wary of yellow or other colors that contain yellow — even neutrals — as yellow can feel brash in a bathroom, and you won’t like what you see in the mirror. Instead, opt for grays with a hint of green or blue, which can feel spa-like.
By: Wendy Helfenbaum
Every successful home search begins with a wish list. Armed with your inventory of must-haves, you’ll know how to focus your search and recognize a potential home that isn’t worth your time.
Still, there’s a strange thing that seems to happen when you’re deep in the trenches of house hunting: The more you look, the longer that wish list seems to grow. But sooner or later, you have to own up to the fact that you can’t have everything—it’s inevitable that you’ll make some compromises somewhere.
And, in these days of tight inventory and cutthroat competition from other buyers, you might feel forced to waver far afield from your hallowed wish list in order to land a home.
That’s OK—it’s important to be flexible. But there are a few times when you absolutely should draw the line. Here are seven areas where you’ll want to dig in your heels.
1. Buying a fixer-upper when you really want turnkey:
You have never swung a hammer, have a phobia of power tools, and always pictured yourself in something new and shiny. But that doesn’t mean you won’t fall in love with a charming, century-old farmhouse that needs a ton of work. Now’s when you have to decide: Are you up to the financial and emotional challenges of taking on major renovations.
It’s an option you should seriously consider (with the help of an experienced general contractor) if you’re in a highly competitive market. But if you don’t think your bank account or your marriage could survive many months of upheaval, stick to your guns and insist on a turnkey home says Mike Kessler, a broker with TSG Residential, in Davidson, NC.
“There have been times when I’ve said to clients, ‘after being with you for a week, I really think we need to look at new construction,'” Kessler says. Many of those clients, he adds, were later grateful for the course correction, saying, “We would never have been able to enjoy ourselves in [an older] house.”
2. A good school district:
Even if you don’t have children, you should make sure the house you’re eyeing has desirable schools nearby, says Tina Maraj, a Realtor® with Re/Max North Orange County in Fullerton, CA.
Does it matter if you’re not looking to have a few kids? Well, things can always change. But even if they don’t, good schools typically translate to a higher resale value—potential buyers with families will want to be in the right district.
Just make sure to do your research and determine where the home sits in relation to the school district boundaries.
“Often agents will advertise a property as being near such-and-such school area, but not necessarily specify the district, which can be very confusing,” Maraj explains. “It can be a real eye-opener if a buyer closes and they’re on one side of a main street that is the dividing line between the top-rated and the lowest-rated high schools.”
Go to the school district’s website to get a map of the district boundaries.
3. The floor plan:
Does the home fit your minimum criteria in terms of number of rooms and the flow of the main living areas? If not, cross it off your list, says Sarah Garza, a Realtor and military relocation specialist with Trident Homes Realty in Arnold, MD.
Garza can share some personal cautionary tales: A military spouse, she’s moved 12 times in the past 20 years, buying and selling nine homes in the process.
“I regret that I compromised on layout in the past,” she says. “When I really needed four bedrooms, I’ve gone to three and then wished I hadn’t.”
Sure, you can add on. But don’t use that option as a fallback, Maraj warns.
“You can change a layout to make it an open floor plan, but it’s a lot more difficult to change the bedroom and bathroom count,” she says. “In the long run, you could end up having a lot of problems and taking on a really big financial undertaking.”
4. The neighbors:
During your search, don’t just focus on the house you’re interested in—check out the neighboring homes as well, Maraj says. Are the properties well-kept, or candidates for an episode of “Hoarders”?
The condition of the properties around you can affect your future resale value. And they can just plain drive you crazy. Make sure you look—and listen—any time you visit your prospective home.
“You can’t change the house in front of you or to the side of you,” Maraj cautions. “And if there’s a barking dog every time you’re viewing the property, that’s another thing that you absolutely cannot change.”
5. Your budget:
You’ve probably already determined how much you’re willing to pay for a home—and you shouldn’t budge on that number. But you should also dig in your heels on the additional costs beyond the sticker price. That means setting a budget for your monthly payments, HOA dues, utility costs, and real estate taxes—and sticking to it. (Hint: You want to do this before you start looking at homes, and definitely before you start making offers.)
Yes, a lender will give you a pre-approval and tell you how much house you can afford. But this is just one piece of the puzzle, and the costs of homeownership can still land you in a mountain of debt if you’re not careful, Kessler points out.
“I try to do a lot of pre-planning with clients about what can they really afford, as opposed to what the bank tells you,” Kessler says. “You never want to be house poor.”
6. Commute time:
If you’ve already determined that you’re willing to take on a 30-minute commute, don’t allow yourself to be swayed into anything longer, Garza says.
“Sometimes buyers fall in love with all the shiny bells and whistles of a house that’s an hour away from work, and want to compromise on what they’ve told me from the beginning,” she notes. “I tell them, ‘I know it doesn’t matter right now because you really love this house, but that’s two hours every day that you’ll be sitting in the car and not enjoying your house. Is that worth it to you?’”
She adds: Until you’ve actually driven the route to and from your potential home and your office, at the times you’ll be commuting, you should never consider compromising.
In some large cities, being just a few miles from the highway can tack on an additional hour of commuting. Could you handle that after a long day in the office? Think carefully before making the sacrifice.
7. Parking:
Speaking of your car, if you own one (or two), you absolutely want a guaranteed spot to park, whether that means an enclosed garage, a driveway, or assigned parking.
“There are many communities that now restrict outside parking, guest spaces, and overnight parking, which could be a real homeowner nightmare if you have to fend for yourself,” Maraj says.
To avoid frustration after you’ve closed a deal, stick to your guns about the things that are most important to you while making your choice, and ignore the rest of the noise.
By: Sarah Fogle
Mix don’t match and 4 other savvy ways to design your dream home.
Exposed brick, black and white, French doors. If you asked me what classic aspects of design I’d like in my dream home, I’d probably check every box. It’s that eclectic mix of old and new, home and travel, fun and sophisticated that can make buying a home and decorating it such an exciting challenge. But surely, at one point or another, many classic features were once a trend — the new thing on the market that everyone had to have.
However, unlike the way shoulder pads and babydoll dresses stuck around for what seemed like decades, the advent of the internet and Pinterest seems to speed us more quickly through the things that are new, and then now, and then passé. “Trend” has become a dirty word — almost synonymous with stuff that’s so of-this-minute that we’ll blink and it’ll already be outdated.
But does it really have to be this way? In my opinion, no.
As much as I might like bohemian and French, industrial and mid-century, and even coastal, I have a limited budget. I can’t afford to constantly replace the stuff that goes out of style. After all, I specifically decided to buy instead of rent to avoid wasting money on things that aren’t a return on my investment!
So, I chose to find a house with good bones — the kind of home with the right space, the right light, and a layout I can invest in for a few years. And after DIYing for the better part of a decade, I’ve learned a few good rules for making sure the home decor I choose lives up to those same investment expectations.
#1 Mix Instead of Match:
I suppose you could call my style “global eclectic.” But really, that’s just a fancy way of saying, “I often don’t like any one particular style, and matchy-matchy just isn’t my thing.” I have a Moroccan-inspired peacock mirror in the hallway, modern blue dining room walls, industrial bar stools in the kitchen, sheepskin draping over my chairs in the living room, and antique items sprinkled everywhere. Not any one style really reigns!
In my mind, decorating where it looks like a single store threw up all over a single room is a quick way to Outdatedsville. Collecting pieces from different trendy styles keeps things fresh and unique. Take, for example, Beth from “Home Stories A to Z.” Her gorgeous bathroom mixes subway tile, global-inspired cement tile on the floor, modern urban fixtures, and farmhouse features like shiplap walls and vanity. Stunning!
#2 Give Trendy Features a Limit:
Large items like couches, beds, and architectural details (like French doors) can still be fun and interesting, but I tend to play it safe by picking one feature on that item that’s somewhat trendy, such as exposed legs (often seen in mid-century furniture), but with a fabric that’s neutral. Rather than going with a piece of mid-century furniture (trend) in the color of the moment (trend), you choose one or the other. It translates well from one style choice to the next. It also lets all of the other, more permanent features stand out, such as a cool archway (or in my case, the big bow windows!).
#3 Edit, Edit, Edit:
Trends that you wind up loathing over time are the ones that you see everywhere. They’re like that boyfriend you fell hard and fast for, and then woke up one day and can’t stand his laugh. Some things are simply never meant to stick around, and that’s OK. Just make sure these aren’t the pieces you invest in. For trendy items, look to bring them in through accents. When you tire of them and want to try out something new, you can then switch them out without making your wallet wince in pain.
Clutter is also what makes a trend look dated. It steals attention away from cool architectural features that should get more of a spotlight (like my big windows, which again, I LOVE). Too much of a good thing is never wise (except breakfast food). So when you like something, go ahead and try it out, but layer it in rather than buying every item of a single collection. Edit out the pieces that don’t fit, and you’re set.
Stacy Risenmay knows this more than most. With her tiny 1938 home filled with four boys, she’s an expert at getting rid of what isn’t needed while still making her house look gorgeous and full of style.
#4 Remember That Styles Are Cyclical (So You Can’t Really Go Wrong):
These days, a lot of trends are about nostalgia (subway tiles, open shelves, old-school kitchen faucets, reclaimed wood, etc.), so it should come as no surprise that plenty of what we call trends are cyclical. They’ll come into fashion, they’ll be overdone to the point we are tired of seeing them, we’ll move on, and then when it comes back in style, we’ll find it refreshing again.
But what is it that keeps these things coming back again and again? It may sound cheesy, but I think it’s all about the way we feel in a space — a happiness and simplicity. That’s why I like the concept of “classic with a twist.” Sure, it could be out of date as far as what’s popular in stores over the next 10 years, but the “classics” I see trending lately are just a recycling of a period that already came and went. That’s really kind of great, because it takes the pressure off. Finding a twist on an older design rather than reinventing the wheel is a simpler goal and something I’m less likely to mess up.
Take, for example, my kitchen’s two-tone cabinets. It’s a vintage look that was made popular again over the last 10 years, and although it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, I get compliments on how retro and modern it looks at the same time.
#5 Focus on Your Faves:
I hate burlap. HATE it. But you know what? Some folks love the look of it so much, they make that scratchy fabric into pillowsthat they lean against in their bedrooms every night. But I’ll admit, as I’ve seen the use of burlap grow in popularity or used in a beautiful room, I question whether or not to buy some for a table runner. The key of knowing when you’re liking something versus being influenced by outside forces? Your gut.
Some homes just have that “it” factor. And you walk away from that house wondering if you too should buy all of the same stuff they did. But it’s not really the couch that’s making the house feel that way; it was that the person who picked it out did so because they freaking love the item.
Take Charlotte’s sofa, for example (below). She knew she was dropping a lot of money on it, she knew it was green, and she new it was velvet. But she dove right in. It makes the space, but if you knew her in person, you’d also realize that no other sofa really quite captures her the way this styling does!
I doubt any reader who has checked out my blog could accuse me of being trendy. In fact, I never really set out to be the kind of DIYer who put a clever spin on everything I touched. And that’s OK, because all I’ve ever really wanted to do is give myself a house that I enjoy living in. So, I pick out pieces that truly speak to me, and forget the rest.
Mixing antiques with modern pieces makes the whole house look like it was collected over time (because it was), but also adds personality unique to me and how I express my style — one that can’t be repeated as easily as shopping through a catalog.
At the end of the day, it’s my home, and the important thing is to make sure that I’m buying it, installing it, etc., because I enjoy seeing it every day — not because someone has once again done something really spectacular with plywood. (I’ll still pin the heck out of it, though!) I truly believe that’s what makes a home both trendy and timeless simultaneously. Loving the home you live in never goes out of style.
By: Mary Beth Storjohann
How to make sure your craft beer hobby and monthly mortgage payments can co-exist.
If you’re considering purchasing a home, you’ve likely already considered how much you have available for a down payment, what an ideal mortgage payment would be, and how much home you can actually afford based on your monthly income. But what about your lifestyle?
Have you considered how much wiggle room you need to leave in your home budget to enjoy life? Here are six life factors to consider when buying a home:
1. Travel:
Travel is an important goal for many people. Think about the travel goals you have for yourself:
•Where do you want to go?
•What do you want to see?
•How long are your ideal trips?
•How much money would you need on an annual basis to make your travel goals possible?
•Is this already factored into your budget or will you need to cut back on travel to fund your monthly mortgage payment and home expenses?
There are no right or wrong answers, but it’s important to reflect on your priorities.
2. Green Thumb?
Do you love gardening, being outside, and all things landscaping? If you purchase a home with a lawn and don’t enjoy the upkeep, you could be looking at an extra $100 or more a month for professional landscape maintenance. Are you willing to skip the lawn in favor of hardscaping to reduce costs?
Bottom line: Factor hobbies and services into your monthly budget to see if the numbers still work out in the black.
3. Pool Time
How dreamy would it be to buy a home with a pool!? Before the dream becomes reality, add up the costs of pool maintenance and servicing, energy, and insurance (along with liability if you have small children) and you may be better off heading to the neighborhood swimming hole.
Pools can be a lot of fun, but they come with a lot of work. Factor time and money into your future plans when buying a home with this special feature and, once again, ask yourself if the numbers add up to support your other financial goals.
4. Children:
If you’re buying a home and plan to start a family in the next few years, don’t just consider the amount of mortgage you can afford under your current expenses. Factor in daycare costs and then determine what your cash flow will look like. You may have to adjust the amount of home you’re looking to purchase.
5. Entertainment:
Chances are you enjoy dining out, going to concerts and sporting events, and seeing movies. If you need to rein in these activities to make room for your mortgage, home expenses, and savings, aim to strike a balance that won’t leave you feeling restless.
After all, you’re likely choosing a 30-year mortgage, and three decades is a long time to feel deprived. If necessary, reduce the amount of home you purchase so you can enjoy yourself in the ways that are important to you.
6. Retirement:
If you’re in your 20s, you should try to save 10% of your income; in your 30s, you should be saving 15%. If you need to cut back on your retirement savings to make a home purchase work, think hard about when you’ll be able to get back to your ideal contribution levels and how much you may be losing out on during that time.
Although home ownership can help build long-term wealth, it’s important to also maintain retirement savings for future security.
By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Bathroom storage can be awfully tight. Bust it out with these ideas.
You fantasize about a bathroom big enough for hot yoga after a steamy shower — a space that can be your personal refuge from the hurly-burly of your house (your life!).
Instead, you’ve got a bath cluttered with all your toiletries right out there in plain view for all your guests to judge, umm, see. It’s like a metaphor for your life; so cramped, you dread trying to blow out your hair tomorrow.
You need space. Here’s how to gain some in your packed space (collected from the pros who do it for a living).
#1 Hang Shelves in Unusual Places:
Being savvy about the type of shelf you choose (think picture ledge instead of bookshelf) and where you hang it (like in that dead wall space between your sink and mirror) can make all the difference in a teeny bathroom (now you’ve got a toothbrushing station — and more sink space!).
Or go big. And UP. A wide shelf above your bathroom door is instant storage for your vacation beach towels.
#2 Go Into the Walls for Even More Shelves:
Feeling cramped often leads to daydreams of taking a mallet to those close-together walls, “Fixer Upper”-style. So do it, really. You’d be amazed how much storage space hides behind bathroom walls between studs that stand 16 inches apart.
Knock out some drywall (just be sure to check for electrical and plumbing lines first!), then throw in some shelves between the studs.
Keep it open if you’re storing towels or nice-looking bottles of lotion there, or add a door for a little more discretion.
#3 Add Storage to Your Pedestal Sink:
Just because your pedestal sink came with the same amount of storage as your yoga pants doesn’t mean there’s no potential there.
You can buy (or build, if you’ve got the DIY bug) cabinets that wrap around the base and, literally, create storage out of thin air. There are lots of options, like Hammacher Schlemmer’s fancy pedestal cabinet that’s priced at $130 and comes with two shelves, tilt-out drawer, and even a magazine rack.
Another DIY solution: Dress your pedestal with a skirt that hides whatever you stuff behind it. It can even be a no-needle, no-sew project. Just use heavy, double-sided tape to attach and hem it.
#4 Put Part of Your Toilet in the Wall (for Real!):
Unless you’re raising sea creatures in your toilet tank (just kidding! Don’t do that!), your large, porcelain cube is eating up valuable space.
Consider a wall-hung toilet (starting at $400). It’s minimalist-chic, and frees up floor space because the whole thing sits closer to the wall.
Since the tank and plumbing hide behind the wall, be sure to leave an access panel to save yourself grief down the road.
Tip: A towel bar, or even some light shelving, can be mounted on the access panel for added storage where your toilet tank used to be.
#5 Get the Most Streamlined Faucet You Can:
Itty-bitty bathrooms are perfect for simple, single-handle faucets that save space on your sink surround.
Sure, it’s just a few square inches you’ll save, but that’s valuable bathroom real estate when you’re in the middle of trying that new updo, brushing your teeth, and doing some self-maintenance.
#6 Hide Toiletries in Hanging Baskets:
These hangables give even ugly bottles and brushes some style, as well as a home. Most baskets are light enough to mount to the wall using a 75-pound picture hook hammered into a stud (we love those studs!). Or, install an extra towel bar — or the infamous Ikea storage rails — and attach baskets and buckets via S-hooks.
#7 Get a Spacious Feeling With a Window:
If your dark, dank bathroom has no window, and it’s on an exterior wall, add one! It’ll reboot your mornings like nothing else.
It’s not the cheapest option (about $2,100 installed). But it’s sooooo worth it to get those sunny rays.
Because your bathroom will just feel bigger. And it’ll let fresh air in, which puts the brakes on mold and mildew. Pick a vinyl window, which won’t rot like wood will (plus vinyl is usually cheaper).
#8 Mount a Second Shower Rod (or Double Rod):
If your shower surround is minimalist in all the wrong ways, you know the misery of stashing bottles and razors and soap in tiny, wet, slippery corners.
But no law says a shower can only have one rod. If you hang a second tension rod inside the shower and add some S-hooks, you can turn your shower into a hanging storage jungle with buckets and caddies.
Tip: You can also buy a double shower rod to do the same thing — or, put the shower curtain on the inside rod and use the outside one to hang towels.
#9 Hack Some Suction Cup Hooks:
For something super easy, super quick that’ll give you some instant relief in your cramped bathroom, try suction hooks, which you can hack with elastic hair ties and mount to shower walls.
Slip razors, shampoo, conditioner through the ties, which will corral the usual shower mess.
Real Estate and *stuff * 