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By: Amy Howell Hirt
The key is to focus on the things your kids touch. Oh, and throw a party.
Ah, the guilt of parenthood: Your kiddos deserve real QT, but also a clean home.
Since there are only so many hours in a day, this spring cleaning plan hits the hot spots that tiny ones tend to find, so your fam can get back to the fun in a clean (if chaotic) space.
Clean Soft Surfaces
Kids are all over carpets, couch cushions, pillows, and duvets, and somehow even curtains (is that … peanut butter?).
These dirt-collecting materials need a deep-cleaning to get rid of allergy-causing dust, food particles, and all the general eww that little hands smear around.
Wash throws, pillow covers, and (most) pillows in the washer. Use a steam cleaner (or hire a pro) for carpet and upholstery. Some curtains may require dry cleaning (always a good idea to check the tag to see what the manufacturer recommends).
Then notice how your whole home feels and smells infinitely cleaner.
Involve Kids in a Purge Party:
Kids can accumulate a staggering amount of toys and doodads. Help them sort through what they can donate:
They’ll learn the value of decluttering, helping others, and taking care of a house. Also: less stuff.
“The benefit for parents is that they can spend more quality time with their children because they aren’t spending all of their time cleaning and organizing,” says Alyssa Trosclair, a professional organizer with Centsibly Organized.
Hit the Undersides of Tables, Counters:
Wipe off the bottoms of high-chair trays, the dining table, and the underside of countertops ledges, where sticky stuff often festers, missed during daily wipe-downs — but easily accessible to tiny hands.
While you’re at it, pull apart any tables with leaves and wipe down the cracks. You may find enough crumbs to make the grossest loaf of bread ever.
Clean Low-Lying Surfaces:
The track of a sliding door is a sterile place to stash your pacifier, right? Little ones sure think so.
Cleaning door thresholds, baseboards, as well as the lower portions of doors, walls, and furniture is important when you’ve got crawling and toddling hands in the household. Oh, and don’t forget the floor registers.
Do a Size Check on Winter Clothing:
Puffy coats, wool hats, scarves, gloves, and ginormous snow suits practically need their own house. And that’s not counting those 2-inch-thick sweaters. Purge the items you know won’t fit a fast-growing child next year, and clean the rest.
Because when the first big snowfall hits, kids won’t want to wait while you wash their crusty hat from last season.
Don’t Forget Door Knobs, Light Switches, Etc.:
Light switches, door knobs, cabinet handles, and remotes are some of the germiest places in your house. Cleaning them might be the most consequential to-do on your spring cleaning list.
By: Houselogic.com
How to find exactly what you want, and how to work with the experts who’ll help you get it.
So you’re thinking about buying your first home. Your very own house (and mortgage). A place to call — and make — your own.
It’s a big move, literally and figuratively. Buying a house requires a serious amount of money and time. The journey isn’t always easy. It isn’t always intuitive. But when you get the keys to your new home — that, friend, can be one of the most rewarding feelings pretty much ever.
The key to getting there? Knowing the home-buying journey. Knowing what tools are at your disposal. And most importantly? Creating relationships with experts who can help you get the job done.
That’s where this guide comes in. We’ll show you not only the major steps you’ll take during the home-buying process, but also explain the relationships and experts you’ll need along the way. We’ve even made a handy infographic that outlines the home-buying process from start to finish.
You ready to live the dream? Here we go.
Oh sure, everybody wants to jump right into open houses. But before you even set foot into a foyer, you should identify your list of “musts” and “wants.” This list is an inventory of priorities for your search. And there’s so much to decide: Price, housing type, neighborhood, and school district — just to name a few.
To get yourself grounded, we recommend filling out this brief worksheet.
If you’re planning to buy a home with a partner (in life or in real estate), fill the worksheet out with them. You want to be on the same page while buying a house. If you’re not, you’ll be less able to give agents or lenders the information they need to help you. And you risk wasting time viewing homes you can’t afford — or don’t even want in the first place.
Once you know what you’re looking for, the next step is to start looking at listings and housing information online. (This part? You’re going to crush it.)
Your relationship with your real estate agent is the foundation of the home-buying process. (And your agent = your rock.) He or she is the first expert you’ll meet on your journey, and the one you’ll rely on most. That’s why it’s important to interview agents and find the agent who’s right for your specific needs.
Once you’ve found your agent (AKA, your new best friend), ask him or her to recommend at least three mortgage lenders that will meet your financial needs. This is another big step, as you’ll be working with your lender closely throughout the home-buying process.
Pick a Loan (It’s Not So Bad):
Once you’ve decided on a lender (or mortgage broker), you’ll work with your loan agent to determine which mortgage is right for you. You’ll consider the percentage of your income you want to spend on your new house, and you’ll provide the lender with paperwork showing proof of income, employment status, and other important financials. If all goes well (fingers crossed) you’ll be pre-approved for a loan at a certain amount. (Sweet.)
Visit Open Houses, and Look Around:
Now that you have both an agent who knows your housing preferences and a budget — and a lender to finance a house within that budget — it’s time to get serious about viewing homes. Your agent will provide listings you may like based on your parameters (price range, ZIP codes, features), and will also help you determine the quality of listings you find online. Then comes the fun part: Open houses and private showings, which give you the unique opportunity to evaluate properties in a way you can’t online.
Once you find the home you want to buy, you’ll work with your agent to craft and offer that not only specifies the price you’re willing to pay but also the proposed settlement date and contingencies — other conditions that must be agreed upon by both parties, such as giving you the ability to do a home inspection and request repairs.
Negotiate, Negotiate, Negotiate:
Making an offer can feel like an emotional precipice, almost like asking someone out on a date. Do they like me? Am I good enough? Will they say yes? It’s stressful! Some home sellers simply accept the best offer they receive, but many sellers make a counteroffer. If that happens, it’s up to you to decide whether you want your agent to negotiate with the seller or walk away. This is an area where your agent can provide real value by using their expert negotiating skills to haggle on your behalf and nab you the best deal.
If your offer is accepted, then you’ll sign a contract. Most sales contracts include a home inspection contingency, which means you’ll hire a licensed or certified home inspector to inspect the home for needed repairs, and then ask the seller to have those repairs made. This mitigates your risk of buying a house that has major issues lurking beneath the surface, like mold or cracks in the foundation. (No one wants that.) Here’s what to expect.
When you offer to buy a home, your lender will need to have the home appraised to make sure the property value is enough to cover the mortgage. If the home appraises close to the agreed-upon purchase price, you’re one step closer to settlement — but a low appraisal can add a wrinkle. Not one you can’t deal with. Here’s how to prepare.
The last stage of the home-buying process is settlement, or closing. This is when you sign the final ownership and insurance paperwork and make this whole thing official. There’s some prep work you have to take care of first.
When it’s all said and done — break out the rosé. You’ll have the keys to your new home!
By: Leanne Potts
Paint a door super bright yellow, or the trim on a window for amazing results.
Buying a house — it’s such an adult thing to do. And putting work into it is another mature choice.
But when personalizing your home, the instinct to keep things adulty can also keep things pretty dull. Gray walls. White ceilings. Taupe for miles. Suddenly your house (read: your life) is booooring.
Time to dive into the pigment pool. Hot pink, wowza red, rich navy, and other colors with a capital C can be just as chic as neutrals, and they’re a lot more fun. Here are 11 ways to bring loud, proud hues into your home without making it look straight outta Dr. Seuss.
#1 Paint the Inside of Your Cabinets:
Because anyone can paint the doors, but getting rid of them and painting the inside is more interesting.
Using the same color on the cabinet’s back panel and the wall behind them adds continuity to the space.
Here, lemon yellow walls work complementary-color magic with the blue-gray cabinets. This is an easy way to get on-trend open shelving without replacing your cabinets.
#2 Paint Your Office Your Favorite Color:
Because in there, you’re the boss.
The trick to making a bold palette work? Favorite color + white + contrasting color = smashing room.
These bold green walls get a chill pill from the white trim, area rug, and desk. That red bookcase and chair bring the big bang of contrasting color that shakes things up.
#3 Dare To Have A Bright Ceiling:
Because you get a pop of color by painting just one surface.
The ceiling sizzle works because the hot pink repeats the color in the ikat wallpaper, and because the floors and furniture are in sober, neutral hues. The gold heart ties into those neutral colors as well as the wallpaper. Win-win.
#4 Choose Retro Hues:
Because throwback colors turn cookie cutter into quirky cool.
Painting these ho-hum kitchen cabinets jadeite green gave them a shot of mid-century mod personality, and replacing the old pulls with retro brass ones punched up the 20th-century vibe.
You can’t beat a kitchen makeover for the cost of a gallon of paint and new cabinet hardware.
#5 Add Wow With Wallpaper:
Because wallpaper’s back, and it’s not your grandma’s tea-rose print circa 1948.
Today’s wallpaper features bold prints and colors (and can even be temporary). This room looks sophisticated, not garish, because while one wall is rocking the psychedelic colors, the rest of the room is a mature blend of good old gray hues.
#6 Focus on the Floor:
Because a bright color underfoot can add big personality to a neutral room.
Porch paint transformed a boring laminate kitchen floor into a whimsical turquoise-and-white checkerboard pattern. Bonus points for the gold cabinet pulls that pop against the blue floor.
#7 Paint the Window Trim:
Because you don’t have time to repaint the entire kitchen.
Add pizzazz in an afternoon by painting a window pane’s trim a bright color. Just that.
You’ll get an instant focal point to distract from the clutter that never seems to totally leave the kitchen. For maximum impact, choose a color complementary to the cabinets.
#8 Don’t Re-Tile A Backsplash, Stick Decals On It:
Because putting fancy tiles like these on a wall is expensive and a big commitment.
And unnecessary. Nope, those aren’t new tiles. They’re decals to put over your old tiles. Peel, stick, done. And if you hate them or just get tired of them? Pull off, throw away, done.
#9 Choose a Bold Hearth Hue:
Because you can get a big bang of bold color by painting just one key thing.
Give your room an instant focal point by painting the fireplace, bricks, wood, and wall above it a single, brilliant color. Keep the rest of the room furnished simply and neutral, so the fireplace can be the star of the show.
#10 Paint the Backside Of A Door:
Because it’s a great place to tuck in unexpected color.
This is especially effective in spaces that are otherwise neutral, like a bathroom. Because a door is a small surface, you can go bold without overpowering the room.
#11 Turn A Bedroom Ceiling Into Art:
Because you spend a lot of time looking at it, so it should be interesting.
Painting this ceiling like the night sky takes the “Star Wars” theme to every surface. Bonus points for the light fixture that adds a bold pop of complementary yellow, and looks like BB-8.
By: Alex Newman
See which school systems are the safest in the Bay State in 2018.
How safe is your child’s school? Recent national events have put student safety at the forefront, and one website has revealed which Massachusetts school districts rank highest in this category. Niche.com released its list of the Safest School Districts for 2018.
The list was created using information from the U.S. Department of Education, the FBI, parent reviews and other data. Niche assigned the most value – 50 percent – to health and safety reports from students and parents; expenses per student and student absenteeism were assigned the second-most value at 10 percent, suspensions accounted for 7.5 percent; and expulsions, law enforcement referrals and school-related arrests rounded were at 5 percent.
Below are the 100 safest school districts in Massachusetts, according to Niche:
1Cambridge Public Schools
2Easton Public Schools
3Wellesley Public Schools
4Duxbury Public Schools
5Ashburnham-Westminster Regional School District, Ashburnham
6Westford Public Schools
7Swansea Public Schools
8Franklin Public Schools
9Auburn Public Schools
10Milton Public Schools
11Beverly Public Schools
12Norwood Public Schools
13Berkshire Hills Public Schools, Stockbridge
14Longmeadow Public Schools
15Westborough Public Schools
16Dartmouth Public Schools
17Natick Public Schools
18Quincy Public Schools
19Shrewsbury Public Schools
20Lynn Public Schools
21Hampden-Wilbraham Regional School District, Wilbraham
22Manchester Essex Regional School District, Manchester
23Marshfield Public Schools
24Reading Public Schools
25Revere Public Schools
26Sutton Public Schools
27Hingham Public Schools
28Brockton Public Schools
29Methuen Public Schools
30Winchester Public Schools
31Foxborough Public Schools
32Braintree Public Schools
33Mendon-Upton Regional School District, Mendon
34Tewksbury Public Schools
35Amesbury Public Schools
36Fairhaven Public Schools
37Medfield Public Schools
38Andover Public Schools
39Norton Public Schools
40Marblehead Public Schools
41Bedford Public Schools
42Southern Berkshire Public Schools, Sheffield
43Woburn Public Schools
44Uxbridge Public Schools
45Chicopee Public Schools
46Burlington Public Schools
47Hull Public Schools
48Haverhill Public Schools
49Groton-Dunstable Regional School District, Groton
50Lenox Public Schools
51East Longmeadow Public Schools
52Fitchburg Public Schools
53Monomoy Regional School District, Chatham
54Hatfield Public Schools
55Canton Public Schools
56Swampscott Public Schools
57Danvers Public Schools
58Dennis-Yarmouth Regional School District, South Yarmouth
59Nashoba Public Schools, Bolton
60Millis Public Schools
61West Bridgewater Public Schools
62Ayer Shirley School District, Ayer
63Easthampton Public Schools
64Plymouth Public Schools
65Needham Public Schools
66Hanover Public Schools
67Gateway Regional School District
68Littleton Public Schools
69East Bridgewater Public Schools
70Cohasset Public Schools
71Stoughton Public Schools
72Rockland Public Schools
73Hopkinton Public Schools
74Millbury Public Schools
75Masconomet Public Schools, Boxford
76Weston Public Schools
77Amherst-Pelham Regional School District
78Maynard Public Schools
79Freetown-Lakeville Regional School District, Lakeville
80Clinton Public Schools
81Whitman-Hanson Regional School District, Whitman
82Lowell Public Schools
83Mansfield Public Schools
84Westfield Public Schools
85Scituate Public Schools
86Wakefield Public Schools
87Taunton Public Schools
88Southwick-Tolland-Granville Regional School District, Southwick
89Lexington Public Schools
90Georgetown Public Schools
91North Reading Public Schools
92Wareham Public Schools
93Wachusett Public Schools
94Tantasqua Public Schools
95Hopedale Public Schools
96Medway Public Schools
97Grafton Public Schools
98Belchertown Public Schools
99North Andover Public Schools
100 Norwell Public Schools
By: Stacey Freed
You don’t want to go too cheap. But affordable options are out there.
About to remodel that old kitchen? Unless you’re cool with treating the hardest working room in your house like a museum exhibit, resist the temptation to buy the cheapest or shiniest materials available and go for durable options that can stand up to regular abuse.
Trust us: Although it may be tough to leave that raised, tempered glass bar top (ooo!) in the showroom, repairing its first (and second, and third) chip will get old. Very fast.
Picking the right materials is easy if you do your homework. “There are amazing products out there,” says Jeffrey Holloway, a certified kitchen designer and owner of Holloway Home Improvement Center in Marmora, N.J.
“You’re looking at price point, sanitation, how easy it is to clean the product, its durability and maintenance.”
Keeping those all-important features in mind, here are some materials to avoidduring your next kitchen project.
#1 Plastic Laminate Counters:
First off, there’s plenty of great laminate out there. It’s the entry-level,plastic laminate to stay away from, Holloway says.
These are the ones that look thin and dull, as opposed to richly textured. They scratch easily, and if the product underneath the laminate gets wet (say, from steam rising from your dishwasher), it can delaminate the countertop, which means the edges will chip pretty easily.
Also, one misplaced hot pan on the plastic will result in a melted disaster zone you’ll remember forever.
But if you’re watching your budget, plastic laminate at the next level up is a good choice. “It’s got good color consistency, and there are a lot of retro and trendy patterns available,” says Dani Polidor, an interior designer and owner of Suite Artistry, and a REALTOR® in Pittsford, N.Y.
New laminate counter technology offers scratch resistance, textured surfaces, and patterns that mimic real wood and stone. “There are even self-repairing nano-technologies embedded in some laminates,” says Polidor, “and others have antimicrobial properties.”
For an average 10-by-20-foot kitchen, the next-level-up laminate will cost about $3,000, Polidor estimates, and those super cool technology options add another $200 to $300. For durability and longer life, the investment is well worth it.
#2 Inexpensive Sheet Vinyl Flooring:
You spend all day stepping on your floor, so quality really matters. At the lower price point, about $2.50 per square foot, the cheapest sheet vinyl floorings tend to be thin.
“If your vinyl floor is glued down and the underlayment gets delaminated, say, by water seeping from your dishwasher or refrigerator, you’ll get bubbles in your floor,” Holloway warns.
Compare that with luxury vinyl tile (LVT) that costs about $5 per square foot.
It’s still usually glued down, but it’s a little more forgiving than its less classy cousin — and it can come in tiles, which you can grout so they mimic the look of higher-end stone, Polidor says.
#3 Some Laminated Cabinet Fronts:
Holloway suggests staying away from lower-end thermofoil cabinet fronts. What is thermofoil? Contrary to its name, there’s no foil or any metal-type material in it. It’s actually vinyl, which is heated and molded around fiberboard. If the cabinet is white and the price is waaaaay affordable compared with other cabinets, think twice. Cheaper thermofoil has three critical issues:
1. It’s not heat resistant. If near a dishwasher or oven, it could delaminate.
2. It can warp and yellow with age, revealing its cheapness.
3. The “wood” underneath the thermofoil is also poor quality and won’t hold up over time.
But just like with plastic laminate, science has made great strides, and now there are a host of new cabinets that are remaking thermofoil’s reputation. “New European laminates have become all the rage for the clean-lined, flat-panel look,” Polidor says. “It’s budget-friendly and can look like wood or high gloss. It’s not your grandmother’s thermofoil.”
And it doesn’t come at grandma’s prices, either. But still, the new thermofoil is much more affordable than custom cabinets, and still satisfies with its rich look and durability.
#4 High-Gloss Lacquered Cabinets:
A nice shine can be eye-catching. And spendy. About 20 layers of lacquer go on a cabinet for the high-gloss look. Ding it or scratch it, and it’s costly to repair.
“It’s a multi-step process for repairing them,” Polidor says. A better option for the same look is high-end thermofoil (see? We said there were good thermofoil options!).
Thermofoil has a finish that’s fused to the cabinet and baked on for a more durable exterior. And it’s way more budget-friendly, too. High-gloss can be in the thousands of dollars, whereas thermofoil can be in the hundreds or dollars.
#5 Flat Paint:
Flat paint has that sophisticated, velvety, rich look we all love.
But keep it in the bedroom.
It’s not KF (kitchen-friendly). Flat paint, also known as matte paint, has durability issues. It’s unstable. Try to wipe off one splatter of chili sauce, and you’ve ruined the paint job.
About the only place to use flat paint in your kitchen is on the ceiling (unless, of course, you have a reputation for blender or pressure-cooker accidents that reach to the ceiling, then we suggest takeout).
Instead, you want to use high-gloss or semi-gloss paint on your walls. They can stand up to multiple scrubbings before breaking down.
#6 Trendy Backsplash Materials:
Tastes change. So avoid super trendy colors and materials when it comes to permanently adhering something to your kitchen walls. Backsplashes come in glass, metal, iridescent, and high-relief decor tiles, which are undoubtedly fun and tempting. They can also be expensive, ranging from $5 to $220 a square foot, and difficult to install. And after all that work and expense, if (er … when) your tastes change in a few years, it’ll be mighty tough to justify a re-do.
Stick with a classic subway tile at $2 to $3 square foot. Or, even more budget friendly, choose an integrated backsplash that matches your countertop material. “If you want pops of color, do it with accessories,” Polidor suggests.
By: Gabriela Barkho
A mud-remediation plan. That’s No. 1 on this short list.
That dark time when winter is like that friend who can’t take a hint to leave.
Give a push with these four easy tasks that’ll help usher in spring.
#1 Make an Anti-Mud Plan:
Mud may be the least of your frozen worries now, but it’s a-coming.
Be prepared with a remediation plan. With your yard in its frozen-tundra state, you can easily see the troublesome spots.
Research potential ground cover, like gravel, a rain garden, decorative rocks, or the right grass that’ll soak it up. Then you’ll be ready to execute your anti-mud plan the moment it’s warm enough — and do it in time to keep the mud at bay.
#2 Organize Your Cleaning Closets and Laundry Room:
Before the madness of spring cleaning begins, organize (or even renovate!) your laundry room and clean closets or cupboards.
This will not only breathe a new life into these oft-ignored areas, but perfectly pampered cleaning stations can seriously rev up your spring cleaning motivation.
#3 Deep-Clean Your Entryway:
Snow. Salt. Boots. Shovels. Your entryway floors, baseboards, rugs, and more have had a rough few months. Give that smallest of rooms some deep cleaning love now, before the salt crust becomes a permanent part of your entryway decor in spring.
#4 Hail a Handyperson:
Spring and summer are peak handyperson seasons. Skip the surge pricing and the agony of waiting for callbacks by hiring someone now. At least for the indoor chores.
Plus, you may be surprised at what outdoor chores can be done.
You’ll be spring-ready before the first flower buds.
By: Leanne Potts
Not to mention, get you a nice ROI on your home’s value.
Don’t spend the whole summer planning your dream fire pit or there could be frost on the ground before it’s ready to roar. Start your DIY now and you won’t miss a single day of prime bonfire season.
Plus, there’s this: A pro-built fire pit costs about $4,500 with a return of about $3,500, according to the “Remodeling Impact Report” from the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.
Now think of your return if you DIY it instead. (Here’s how to do it the money-saving way.)
Some ideas to motivate you:
#1 Old-Timey Rock Fire Pit:
If you live near rocky terrain, you can forage for rocks and stack them into a pit that looks like it came from the 19th century, instead of from a big-box store kit.
#2 Koi Pond Turned Fire Pit:
If you’ve decided the koi are more trouble than they’re worth, re-home them and turn the fish pond into a fire pit. Drain it, fill it with sand, and top with a layer of lava rock (or azure fire glass if you want to keep the look of water).
Use the money you save on fish food, algae killer, and chlorine remover to buy firewood and marshmallows.
#3 Easy-Peasy Tree Ring Pit:
Want to DIY a fire pit, but would rather read software user agreements than spend a weekend stacking and mortaring?
Pick up some concrete tree rings, and you can make a fire pit in about an hour.
Stack the rings into an inner and outer wall. Use rings with a scalloped top so you can turn the top rings upside down and lock them with the bottom ones, Lego-style. Put landscaping rocks between them to make the fire pit sturdier.
And the genius hack: Use a small, round charcoal grill as a liner. Let the bonfire begin.
#4 A Great Big Seat By the Fire:
If you’ve got a gaggle of friends, build modular wooden seating so there’s room for everybody around the fire. You’ll need to be handy with math and power tools to build this bench, but the fire pit’s a cinch: It’s made of dry-stack retaining wall blocks. That’s it.
If building benches with angled edges is above your pay grade, just buy some regular benches and arrange in a circle. You made the fire pit. That’s plenty.
#5 A Room with a View:
Why stop at a fire pit? Go for a full-on outdoor room in a cozy corner of the yard, with a gravel patio, flagstone path, comfy chairs, and side tables.
This fire pit is super simple: a hole lined with sand and ringed with dry stack pavers.
#6 New Fire Pit, Old Materials:
Why buy new stuff when you may be able to scavenge perfectly good ones from your yard?
Got a paved path you don’t want? A patio that’s too big or in the wrong place? Pick up the stones and use them to make the fire pit you’re craving.
Nearly all of the materials in this fire pit and patio came from other hardscape features in the yard. Those benches? Salvaged wood beams from a razed building.
Scour Craigslist and other marketplaces for used pavers, flagstone, or salvaged wood you can use for a fire pit. Other people’s old stuff works, too.
By: Jennifer Nelson
There is one paint color you must avoid at all costs (see #5).
A clean, well-planned, and stunning bathroom is every homeowner’s goal. But creating it can be a bit of a sticky wicket.
All that water, humidity, and artificial lighting, and those tight corners make the space a real challenge. Don’t make it worse by wasting money on materials that won’t withstand the task or will need replacing when they don’t work out. Dodge bad bathroom decisions by avoiding these five things:
#1 Wallpaper:
In a high-steam area such as a bathroom, wallpaper may start to peel in a few years, according to some designers. In fact, steam is used to strip old wallpaper off walls.
Despite the many photos of stylish, wallpapered bathrooms in magazines, unless it’s a half-bath or guest bath that’s seldom used, skip it. Really want the unique look wallpaper provides? Try a solid vinyl wall covering instead. It won’t allow moisture to seep through.
#2 Laminate Flooring:
Love the look and affordability of laminate flooring? Use it in another room. Water and laminate floors don’t mix. Even tiny amounts of water will seep between the planks, causing them to expand, peel, swell, and lift from the floor.
Even laminate manufacturers advise against installing in high moisture areas. The good news? There are plenty of other products out there that work extremely well in bathrooms. Take another look at linoleum. It’s eco-friendly, budget-friendly, and comes in a wide variety of looks.
#3 Slippery or Glossy Tile or Stone:
Many ceramic, porcelain, and stone floors will become slippery in wet conditions. The more polished a tile, the more likely it will become slippery when wet.
Solution: Select your bathroom floor surface carefully, vetting each against slippery conditions. Look for tiles certified to meet slip-resistance standards specified by the Americans with Disabilities Act.
#4 Wall-to-Wall Carpet:
Carpet, while soft and comfy, isn’t ideal flooring in a powder room. Not only is the ick factor apparent, especially around the toilet, but mold and mildew can build up, which can cause health issues. In fact, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention specifically advises against carpeting bathrooms to avoid mold exposure.
If you really want the cozy touch of carpet in the bathroom, fluffy bath mats add color and comfort — and can be regularly laundered.
#5 Yellow Paint:
When selecting paint colors, remember that color will appear more intense on your bathroom walls than it would in most other rooms, especially if the bathroom relies heavily on artificial lighting.
“In that smaller space, where the mirror multiplies the impact of the lighting, the walls tend to reflect and magnify color from other walls,” says Amy Bell, an interior decorator and owner of Red Chair Home Interiors in Cary, N.C. Be especially wary of yellow or other colors that contain yellow — even neutrals — as yellow can feel brash in a bathroom, and you won’t like what you see in the mirror. Instead, opt for grays with a hint of green or blue, which can feel spa-like.
By: Stacey Freed
You don’t want to go too cheap. But affordable options are out there.
About to remodel that old kitchen? Unless you’re cool with treating the hardest working room in your house like a museum exhibit, resist the temptation to buy the cheapest or shiniest materials available and go for durable options that can stand up to regular abuse.
Trust us: Although it may be tough to leave that raised, tempered glass bar top (ooo!) in the showroom, repairing its first (and second, and third) chip will get old. Very fast.
Picking the right materials is easy if you do your homework. “There are amazing products out there,” says Jeffrey Holloway, a certified kitchen designer and owner of Holloway Home Improvement Center in Marmora, N.J.
“You’re looking at price point, sanitation, how easy it is to clean the product, its durability and maintenance.”
Keeping those all-important features in mind, here are some materials to avoid during your next kitchen project.
#1 Plastic Laminate Counters:
First off, there’s plenty of great laminate out there. It’s the entry-level,plastic laminate to stay away from, Holloway says.
These are the ones that look thin and dull, as opposed to richly textured. They scratch easily, and if the product underneath the laminate gets wet (say, from steam rising from your dishwasher), it can delaminate the countertop, which means the edges will chip pretty easily.
Also, one misplaced hot pan on the plastic will result in a melted disaster zone you’ll remember forever.
But if you’re watching your budget, plastic laminate at the next level up is a good choice. “It’s got good color consistency, and there are a lot of retro and trendy patterns available,” says Dani Polidor, an interior designer and owner of Suite Artistry, and a REALTOR® in Pittsford, N.Y.
New laminate counter technology offers scratch resistance, textured surfaces, and patterns that mimic real wood and stone. “There are even self-repairing nano-technologies embedded in some laminates,” says Polidor, “and others have antimicrobial properties.”
For an average 10-by-20-foot kitchen, the next-level-up laminate will cost about $3,000, Polidor estimates, and those super cool technology options add another $200 to $300. For durability and longer life, the investment is well worth it.
#2 Inexpensive Sheet Vinyl Flooring:
You spend all day stepping on your floor, so quality really matters. At the lower price point, about $2.50 per square foot, the cheapest sheet vinyl floorings tend to be thin.
“If your vinyl floor is glued down and the underlayment gets delaminated, say, by water seeping from your dishwasher or refrigerator, you’ll get bubbles in your floor,” Holloway warns.
Compare that with luxury vinyl tile (LVT) that costs about $5 per square foot.
It’s still usually glued down, but it’s a little more forgiving than its less classy cousin — and it can come in tiles, which you can grout so they mimic the look of higher-end stone, Polidor says.
#3 Some Laminated Cabinet Fronts:
Holloway suggests staying away from lower-end thermofoil cabinet fronts. What is thermofoil? Contrary to its name, there’s no foil or any metal-type material in it. It’s actually vinyl, which is heated and molded around fiberboard. If the cabinet is white and the price is waaaaay affordable compared with other cabinets, think twice. Cheaper thermofoil has three critical issues:
1. It’s not heat resistant. If near a dishwasher or oven, it could delaminate.
2. It can warp and yellow with age, revealing its cheapness.
3. The “wood” underneath the thermofoil is also poor quality and won’t hold up over time.
But just like with plastic laminate, science has made great strides, and now there are a host of new cabinets that are remaking thermofoil’s reputation. “New European laminates have become all the rage for the clean-lined, flat-panel look,” Polidor says. “It’s budget-friendly and can look like wood or high gloss. It’s not your grandmother’s thermofoil.”
And it doesn’t come at grandma’s prices, either. But still, the new thermofoil is much more affordable than custom cabinets, and still satisfies with its rich look and durability.
#4 High-Gloss Lacquered Cabinets:
A nice shine can be eye-catching. And spendy. About 20 layers of lacquer go on a cabinet for the high-gloss look. Ding it or scratch it, and it’s costly to repair.
“It’s a multi-step process for repairing them,” Polidor says. A better option for the same look is high-end thermofoil (see? We said there were good thermofoil options!).
Thermofoil has a finish that’s fused to the cabinet and baked on for a more durable exterior. And it’s way more budget-friendly, too. High-gloss can be in the thousands of dollars, whereas thermofoil can be in the hundreds or dollars.
#5 Flat Paint:
Flat paint has that sophisticated, velvety, rich look we all love.
But keep it in the bedroom.
It’s not KF (kitchen-friendly). Flat paint, also known as matte paint, has durability issues. It’s unstable. Try to wipe off one splatter of chili sauce, and you’ve ruined the paint job.
About the only place to use flat paint in your kitchen is on the ceiling (unless, of course, you have a reputation for blender or pressure-cooker accidents that reach to the ceiling, then we suggest takeout).
Instead, you want to use high-gloss or semi-gloss paint on your walls. They can stand up to multiple scrubbings before breaking down.
#6 Trendy Backsplash Materials:
Tastes change. So avoid super trendy colors and materials when it comes to permanently adhering something to your kitchen walls. Backsplashes come in glass, metal, iridescent, and high-relief decor tiles, which are undoubtedly fun and tempting. They can also be expensive, ranging from $5 to $220 a square foot, and difficult to install. And after all that work and expense, if (er … when) your tastes change in a few years, it’ll be mighty tough to justify a re-do.
Stick with a classic subway tile at $2 to $3 square foot. Or, even more budget friendly, choose an integrated backsplash that matches your countertop material. “If you want pops of color, do it with accessories,” Polidor suggests.
By: Amy Howell Hirt
Absolutely stunning! No. 4 is a water-resisting showstopper.
We don’t ask much from bathroom surfaces.
Just that they be beautiful and withstand every cleaning chemical invented, steamy showers, piles of damp towels, and, did we mention, tantrum-induced line-drives with bath toys?
Oh, and they should be easy to clean. That’s all.
So what materials can live up to the ask? We asked the experts. Here are 10 they recommend:
#1 Engineered Stone Countertop:
Dying for a white marble countertop? Join the club. But get ready to seal, reseal, and reseal. Then repeat. Year after year.
Or, go for engineered stone, which can mimic marble (and other stone materials) for about the same cost, but minus the hassle. It’s non-porous so it resists bacteria, mold, stains, and water damage better than the real thing. Better! And it never needs sealing!
#2 Glazed Porcelain Tile Floor:
Moisture is Enemy No. 1 for bathroom floors, and glazed porcelain tile is its most-worthy adversary.
It won’t hold onto water like laminate and porous materials, and porcelain tiles glazed with glass are nearly stain-proof — as are today’s high-quality epoxy and urethane grouts, which don’t require sealing.
#3 Vinyl Floor:
Time to rethink vinyl. Hear us out. Luxury vinyl tiles, which mimic stone and wood, are awesome at resisting moisture.
Other affordable options like laminate just can’t keep up. Plus, vinyl sheets are so large, you can cover a small bath without a single seam or grout line, making it easy on the eye and easier to keep clean.
#4 Plywood Cabinets:
Yup. We said plywood. But today’s “grade A” offering isn’t your mother’s plywood. (Or your Swedish cousin’s, which is actually particleboard.)
Composed of pressed layers of alder, birch, or cedar, “grade A” plywood (also known as furniture-grade) remains more stable in the face of moisture than solid wood, which will shrink and swell in response to bathroom humidity (causing cracks in painted surfaces and even warped panels).
As for the finish, you don’t need to spring for anything fancy: The factory finish applied to cabinetry nowadays will hold up to the moisture. Isn’t living in the future great?
#5 Tempered Glass Shower Doors:
While you need your glass to be tempered for safety, you don’t need a special spot-resistant treatment or upgraded texture to have crystal-clear shower doors.
“Glass is easy to clean,” says Ebony Stephenson, a certified kitchen and bath designer. “I tell my clients, ‘I’ll give you a squeegee and you can save $2,000. It’s a lot of money when you can just wipe off your glass.’” So definitely get tempered glass, but skip the add-on treatments that promise no spots.
#6 Glossy or Semi-Glossy Paint:
Paint sheen matters.
A full-on glossy paint has a shiny, sealed surface that blocks out moisture and wipes clear of residue, say from hairspray, without leaving a mark like a matte finish will. But the sheen can be a bit overbearing on anything more than trim, and calls attention to wall flaws.
A semi-glossy finish will hold up nearly as well to cleaning and moisture, without calling quite as much attention to bumps, dents, and other imperfections.
#7 Cast Iron Tub:
A tub forged from molded liquid iron is likely going to be the toughest thing in your house — maybe even your neighborhood, depending on where you live.
You may need extra support for your floor (and your pocketbook) to bring it home, but cast iron won’t chip, scratch, or dent like fiberglass, acrylic, and even porcelain can.
This tub is your forever tub. And probably your children’s forever tub. And their kids’.
#8 Porcelain-on-Steel Tub:
Don’t let its acronym, POS, misguide you: Heat-fused enamel on steel will resist corrosion, abrasion, and chipping better than synthetic materials, and it is much more affordable than cast iron.
#9 Acrylic Panel Shower Walls:
Despite their lightweight, acrylic wall panels, often called shower surrounds, are not lightweights. They resist chipping, cracking, and peeling, and are much easier to maintain than stone tiles or slabs. Unlike tile, they nail directly to wall studs or glue to the wallboards, so they don’t require grout. Acrylic is tougher than fiberglass and colored all the way through — so it’s less likely to scratch, and even a deep cut won’t be as obvious. They’re also more affordable than tile and available in textured patterns, if you want to look like you splurged on a fancy design.
#10 Stainless Steel Sink:
Stainless: not just for kitchens anymore. Corrosion- and stain-resistant, it won’t melt under a hot curling iron like acrylic can, and won’t dent or chip like porcelain if nail clippers plummet down from the medicine cabinet.
And it’s the perfect match for the industrial-chic look that doesn’t seem to be going anywhere.
Real Estate and *stuff * 