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By: Ari Taylor
We have all heard it before, “Buying a home is so stressful!” The home-buying process ranks as one of the top-five most stressful situations that we can face in a lifetime. Who can blame us for getting so stressed out over the process? After all, there are a lot of decisions that go into choosing the right home, and the eviction process is a lot easier for a bank than a landlord!
Following these nine tips will help to take at least some of the stress out of the process!
For more information on building the right team to get the job done, call today!
Staging your house can make you money. Seventy-one percent of sellers’ agents believe a well-staged environment increases the dollar value buyers are willing to offer, according to the National Association of REALTORS® “2015 Profile of Home Staging.”
Just take this real world tale of two condo listings from Terrylynn Fisher, a REALTOR® with Dudum Real Estate Group in Walnut Creek, Calif., who also stages:
Both units were in the same complex. One hadn’t been staged or updated since it was built; the other was staged and had been slightly refreshed (a little paint here and there and one redone bath). Otherwise, both units were the same size and layout. The staged condo sold for about $30,000 more than the unstaged unit, she says. “People couldn’t believe it was the same model.”
Before your eyes turn into dollar signs, keep in mind staging isn’t guaranteed to get you more money. But it’s an important marketing tool to help you compete at the right price, which means you can sell faster. (A study from the Real Estate Staging Association bears this out.)
Helping buyers fall in love with your property takes more than running the vacuum and fluffing the pillows: It’s all about decluttering, repairing, updating, and depersonalizing, say real estate agents and stagers.
With help from Fisher and other sources, we’ve compiled the ultimate home staging checklist.
Jump to a specific room or area of the house:
By: G.M. Filisko
You might be nose blind to your pet’s aroma. Potential buyers won’t be.
Having pet odors inside your home can turn off potential homebuyers and keep your home from selling. Ask your real estate agent for an honest opinion about whether your home has a pet smell.
If your agent holds her nose, here’s how to get rid of the smell:
#1 Air Out Your House:
While you’re cleaning, throw open all the windows in your home to allow fresh air to circulate and sweep out unpleasant scents.
Once your house is free of pet odors, do what you can to keep the smells from returning. Crate your dog when you’re out or keep it outdoors. Limit the cat to one floor or room, if possible. Remove or replace pet bedding.
#2 Scrub Thoroughly:
Scrub bare floors and walls soiled by pets with vinegar, wood floor cleaner, or an odor-neutralizing product, which you can purchase at a pet supply store for $10 to $25.
Try a 1:9 bleach-to-water solution on surfaces it won’t damage, like cement floors or walls.
Got a stubborn pet odors covering a large area? You may have to spend several hundred dollars to hire a service that specializes in hard-to-clean stains.
#3 Wash Your Drapes and Upholstery:
Pet odors seep into fabrics. Launder, steam clean, or dry clean all your fabric window coverings. Steam clean upholstered furniture.
Either buy a steam cleaner designed to remove pet hair for around $200 and do the job yourself, or pay a pro. You’ll spend about $40 for an upholstered chair, $100 for a sofa, and $7 for each dining room chair if a pro does your cleaning.
#4 Clean Your Carpets:
Shampoo your carpets and rugs, or have professionals do the job for $25 to $50 per room, depending on their size and the level of filth embedded in them. The cleaner will try to sell you deodorizing treatments. You’ll know if you need to spend the extra money on those after the carpet dries and you have a friend perform a sniff test.
If deodorizing doesn’t remove the pet odor from your home, the carpets and padding will have to go. Once you tear them out, scrub the subfloor with vinegar or an odor-removing product, and install new padding and carpeting. Unless the smell is in the subfloor, in which case that goes next.
#5 Paint, Replace, or Seal Walls:
When heavy-duty cleaners haven’t eradicated smells in drywall, plaster, or woodwork, add a fresh coat of paint or stain, or replace the drywall or wood altogether.
On brick and cement, apply a sealant appropriate for the surface for $25 to $100. That may smother and seal in the odor, keeping it from reemerging.
#6 Place Potpourri or Scented Candles in Strategic Locations:
Put a bow on your deep clean with potpourri and scented candles. Don’t go overboard and turn off buyers sensitive to perfumes. Simply place a bowl of mild potpourri in your foyer to create a warm first impression, and add other mild scents to the kitchen and bathrooms.
#7 Control Urine Smells:
If your dog uses indoor pee pads, put down a new pad each time the dog goes. Throw them away outside in a trash can with a tight lid. Remove even clean pads from view before each showing.
Replace kitty litter daily, rather than scooping used litter clumps, and sweep up around the litter box. Hide the litter box before each showing.
#8 Relocate Pets:
If your dog or cat has a best friend it can stay with while you’re selling your home (and you can stand to be separated from your pet), consider sending your pet on a temporary vacation. If pets have to stay, remove them from the house for showings and put away their dishes, towels, and toys.

By: Tiffany Staples
Your dog’s wishes might not be a huge factor in determining the home you purchase, but there are a few things to think about when moving fido into his new digs. Here are some simple tips to help your dog adjust to his new surroundings:
Consider washing your dog’s bed and/or toys a few days prior to moving day so that you don’t have to move dirty items into your nice, new home. This will allow your dog a few days to infuse his/her scent back into the bedding or toys. When you move the items, be sure to provide those (not new) items to your dog right away so that he knows his items are welcome in the space.
Just like human children, your furry little friend thrives on knowing their boundaries. Where they can and cannot go and what they should and shouldn’t do. Establish these zones in your new house early on – the earlier the better. Allow your dog to explore or their curiosity will be peaked and you will find them sneaking into “no-go” spaces in your new home, but also establish rules that they are not to be in certain spaces on a regular basis.
Often, dogs (and other animals) will behave in ways other than how they are normally accustomed to when they move. They may be less apt to listen to commands or regress in training. Be patient. Reinforce previous training methods and follow through with consistency in training. It might seem like your animal will never adjust to your new space – be consistent and be patient.
Packing, moving, and unpacking is exhausting and nerve-wracking! Calm your nerves and the nerves of your dog with a few extra minutes of attention. As little as five minutes can help your dog relax in their new home. Take them for a walk around your new neighborhood so they can get used to the traffic patterns, smells and surroundings where they now live.
Have any more tips? Let us know what you think!
By: Jamie Wiebe
Don’t break your back shoveling snow. Try these tips to make winter less of a burden.
If you’re a homeowner in a snowy climate, chances are good you rue the winter: All that snow has to go somewhere, and it’s not getting there itself.
Cue the snow shovel.
Barring a move to a snow-free state or barricading your family inside all winter, there’s no way to avoid the endless task of shoveling snow. There are, however, ways to make the process much easier. Here are three simple hacks to make the morning after a snowfall much less stressful.
1. Spray Your Shovel with Cooking Oil:
Snow sticking to your shovel makes an already arduous task even more obnoxious. Avoid it with this hack: Lightly coat your shovel with non-stick cooking oil to make snow slide right off. No more time wasted removing snow from your snow remover. (You can substitute a spray lubricant like WD-40, but the downside is it’s toxic.)
2. Lay Out a Tarp Before the Snow:
If you like short cuts, this technique, billed as “the laziest way imaginable” to clear snow, according to a tutorial from “Instructables,” has got your name on it. The day before an expected snowfall, lay a tarp on your walkway. When the snow finishes falling, just pull out the tarp, and voilà: an instantly cleared walkway. (Word to the wise: Make sure pedestrians won’t trip on your tarp; include a sign or use this technique in your backyard walkway if you’re concerned.)
The technique requires a tarp, firewood, and twine as well as some prep work. Pre-storm, use firewood to weigh down your tarp — you don’t want it flying away in the wind! — and tie the twine to both the tarp and to a shovel standing upright in your yard. You’ll use the shovel to pull out the snow-laden tarp.
Although this method might be faster than shoveling, it does require manpower. After all, a cubic foot of snow can weigh between 7 and 20 pounds. So don’t get too ambitious with the size of your tarp or you might not be able to pull it once it’s full of snow.
3. Make a Homemade De-icing Cocktail:
De-icers make snow removal easier by cutting through the tough, icy layers that are a pain to remove with a shovel. But an easy solution should be easy on your property as well. Many commercial de-icers are pretty harsh.
Commercial ice-melting substances — magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, and sodium chloride (salt) — all cause damage to the environment, according to the University of Maryland’s Home and Garden Information Center. They can also damage concrete sidewalks and driveways, which mean hefty repair costs later.
A better solution: Make your own de-icer using rubbing alcohol or vinegar. You’ll save money, too. Commercial melters typically cost $8 or more. Plus, you’ll avoid the hassle of trekking to the hardware store to stock up.
Use vinegar before a storm to make ice and snow removal easier:
To keep the sidewalks and steps from icing after a storm:
By: Marianne Lipanovich
A once-a-month cleaning of your washer will ensure that it stays spick-and-span along with your clothes.
Just because you fill your washing machine with laundry detergent doesn’t mean you don’t need to clean the machine itself. It sounds counterintuitive, but while your machine is ridding your clothes of dirt, it doesn’t always rid itself of that same dirt or a buildup of detergent residue.
In addition, the newer HE (high efficiency) machines are especially prone to developing mold and mildew, especially if you live in an area with high humidity levels, which can lead to an odor developing both in the machine itself and on your “clean” clothes. “We take our washing machines for granted,” says Taryn Brucia, a public relations director at LG Electronics. “They do some dirty jobs. We should give them some love.” With that in mind, here’s how to clean a washing machine.
How Often?
Most manufacturers recommend cleaning the machine once a month, although a quick internet search and survey of friends and family will confirm that the majority of us are still wrapping our heads around the idea of cleaning the machine.
Others, though, clean theirs even more often. “I have a separate cleaning cycle as an option on my washing machine and run that cycle after I wash cleaning rags every week,” says Becky Rapinchuk of Clean Mama. Fortunately, the process is fairly painless, especially since the machine itself does most of the work.
Identify Your Machine and Select Your Cleanser:
The type of washing machine you have will dictate which method you use to clean it. HE front loaders and top loaders need one approach; top-loading non-HE machines need a slightly different approach.
Before you start, decide what type of cleanser you want to use: white vinegar, bleach or a commercial cleanser. Vinegar is nontoxic and readily available, making it a favorite for both Brucia and Rapinchuk, but some manufacturers recommend bleach or other chemical cleansers, so check the manual for your machine. If you are using a commercial product, follow the label’s instructions for the recommended amount.
Caution: Choose only one cleanser. You never want to mix these products.
For HE Washers (Front Loading or Top Loading):
A monthly cleaning is especially important if your HE machine has developed an odor. “Wiping down the interior of the washer with cleaner, using extra detergent or running everything on the longest, hottest cycle does nothing to help dissipate the scent,” Rapinchuk says, adding that doing this cleaning task will eliminate the odor and keep your washing machine “in tip-top condition.” Many newer machines have a clean cycle, which makes the process even simpler, but the basic procedure is the same whether you have that or not.
Once the cycle has ended, use a microfiber cloth dipped in vinegar to clean the gasket that seals the door and the area around it. “Carefully pull it back and inspect to see if you have mold, mildew or socks (as is the case with mine) underneath,” Rapinchuk says.
Don’t overlook cleaning the dispensers. Use vinegar or soapy water to wipe any detergent, bleach, fabric softeners or other laundry add-ins from the dispensers. “You can often just pop them out,” Brucia says. Wipe off all these areas with a cloth dipped in water and dry them with a microfiber cloth.
Finish by wiping down the controls and the outside of the machine with a microfiber cloth dipped in vinegar or an all-purpose spray. To make the exterior shine, dry with a microfiber cloth.
For Top-Loading Non-HE Washers:
Although older machines don’t generally have a cycle for cleaning, you can easily create your own version. It involves a bit of a wait time between beginning the cycle and ending it, so use that time to clean other areas that won’t be reached by the water in the tub.
If you can remove the bleach and fabric softener dispensers, do so and clean the areas beneath them with the cloth and cleaning solution as well. If they are fixed in place, clean them and the area around them. “Using vinegar will help eliminate the detergent buildup,” Brucia says.
Finally, clean the control panel and the outside of the machine with the cleaning solution or an all-purpose spray. Use a dry microfiber cloth to dry and polish the surfaces.
Daily (or Almost Daily) Care:
The experts also have some advice for preventing a buildup of dirt and odors between cleanings. If mold and mildew are a problem, leave the machine’s door or lid open after you finish a load of laundry so that the interior will dry out completely. Before you do this, make sure curious children and pets can’t get into the machine, especially if it’s a front-loading one. Some machines have latches designed to keep the door ajar without leaving it wide open.
Brucia also recommends wiping down the door or lid to get rid of any condensation. Wiping and drying the gasket around the door every time you finish a load of laundry will help prevent a buildup of dirt in that area. As a final tip, be sure to use the correct amount of detergent for your loads.
By: Jamie Wiebe
Here’s how to DIY your way to the best zzzs — and mood — ever.
We spend a third of our lives passed out, tucked between the covers, drooling all over the pillow. But when it comes to home improvements, most of our projects benefit our waking selves. (Hello, new kitchen.)
Good sleep is essential to living our best life. So why not invest in it?
“You’re going to be a better partner, have a better outlook, and be a kinder, happier person,” says Terry Cralle, R.N., a certified clinical sleep educator with the Better Sleep Council.
Sign us up. And rest easy; while optimizing your home for better ZZZs means more than scoping out an amazing new mattress (though we totally endorse that splurge), it doesn’t have to cost a huge chunk of change. Here are 10 ways you can hack your bedroom for better sleep.
Embrace the Dark Side:
Don’t take Melisandre of “Game of Thrones” at her word — the night may be dark, but it’s not full of terrors. It’s full of good sleep.
Even if you think you sleep better with a night-light on (or, God forbid, the overhead), Cralle says the effect of blackout shades and eliminating all other light sources might surprise you.
“When you don’t have a point of reference for how well you sleep in a really dark room, you don’t realize the difference,” she says. And getting shut-eye in the dark isn’t just a matter of better sleep: Nighttime light has also been linked to low melatonin levels.
Clear the Clutter:
Your pile of unsorted laundry affects your sleep — as does your stack of late-night water glasses and overflowing knitting basket. Clutter causes stress, which keeps sleep at bay.
“Remove everything from your bedroom that isn’t bedroom-related,” Cralle says. “If you have a stack of bills, even if you’ve already paid them, it can be a source of stress.”
Sleeping alongside little messes can even turn into bigger problems. “People who doze in cluttered rooms are more likely to develop hoarding problems,” Cralle says. “It’s a vicious cycle. Don’t let it start.”
Get a Sweet Entertainment Center…in the Living Room:
Watching an episode of “Friday Night Lights” while tucked under the covers might be your idea of relaxing, but Cralle calls electronics “a huge sleep stealer.”
Not only do screens keep your brain churning long after bedtime, but the blue-tinged light emitted by televisions and smartphones can affect your melatonin. And ambient light — like the red power light on your TV, or the orange glow from your phone charger — makes those blackout shades less effective.
If you’re desperate for your nighttime screen fix, install f.lux on your laptop, which tints your screen to reduce the harmful effects of blue light. And the latest iPhone update offers a similar feature called Night Shift.
Give Your Bedroom One Job (Okay, Two):
Your bedroom should be your bedroom — not your bedroom, your office, andyour exercise room. Some homeowners decide forcing double- or triple-duty on their sleeping space is their only option, but if there’s anywhere else to put your desk or ancient treadmill, do it.
“The bedroom should be for sleep and romance only,” Cralle says. “You want it to be minimal in terms of furnishings and contents. Nothing should distract from the room’s purpose: to get a wonderful night’s sleep.”
Soundproof Like Mad:
Tearing out the drywall to add soundproof insulation might be a bit drastic, but anything you can do to eliminate nighttime noise will go a long way toward promoting a healthy, restful snooze.
Your brain continues to process noise at night, so do everything you can to soften the sounds — even fixing creaky floors that startle your spouse when you sneak to the bathroom at 3 a.m. (And there’s no need to bust out the hammer to quiet your floors: Talcum powder does the trick.)
“Even noise that doesn’t bring you fully awake is bad,” Cralle says.
Installing an upholstered headboard against the wall can help dampen distracting noises. Cralle even recommends acoustic panel artwork to keep your bedroom perfectly silent. And if your neighbors are keen on late-night activities, an honest conversation might inspire them to keep the volume down.
Choose a Different Hue:
If your sleep schedule feels a little blue, consider the color temperature of your lightbulbs. It might be the culprit.
“Blue lights are very disruptive,” Cralle says, and the effect lasts — even afterthey’re switched off. Just like your computer monitor, standard fluorescent and many halogen bulbs give off a slight blue hue. Not only does the color disrupt your melatonin level, but it can amplify depressive symptoms.
Light your bedroom with bulbs that give off a red or amber hue, like a standard fluorescent light or a warm-toned LED. When you’re shopping, look for lights with a color temperature near 2700K and no higher than 4000K — many packages include this information.
Improve Your Air:
You might not care about (or notice) all the dust littering your room when you’re awake, but when you’re in dreamland, your nose sure does — and it’s keeping you awake. Dust isn’t the only problem with your bedroom air. High levels of carbon dioxide can hinder your concentration the next morning.
Cralle recommends airing out your bedroom every day or sleeping with the windows open (if the temperature allows) to maintain the room’s CO2 and improve air quality. But if you’re “not in a position to do so, plants can keep the air clean.” Her favorite: mother-in-law’s tongue, also known as the snake plant, which improves the air and thrives in low light.
Pick a Cozy Paint:
Bold, bright paint colors might work wonders for your kitchen. Your bedroom needs an entirely different tack: something calm and relaxing, like a soft blue. (Yes, it sounds like a contradiction — blue light is bad, blue paint is good — but it’s true.)
“It’s a very relaxing color, and it brings down your blood pressure and heart rate,” Cralle says.
But no matter which shade you choose, stick with cool-toned colors, like silvers, grays, or light purples to keep your space tranquil.
Explore Scents:
Nothing’s more calming than relaxing in a field of flowers. Or imagining it, because who has actually done that? Either way, why not imitate the experience in your bedroom?
“Make scent a forethought,” Cralle says. “It really makes your room a sleep sanctuary.”
Relaxing aromas — particularly jasmine, lavender, and vanilla — can reduce insomnia and depression and make you less sleepy in the morning. And if it inspires you to skip through flower fields in your dreams, all the better.
Avoid winter’s nastiest tricks.
Wintry weather is great at turning up problems you didn’t even know you had. Like that first snowy night in front of your fireplace that you thought was pure bliss — until you noticed a leak in the ceiling corner, which apparently was caused by a lack of insulation. How were you supposed to know that?
Many homeowners don’t realize they’re making critical missteps that can cost a ton when winter sets in. Here are seven wintertime mistakes homeowners often make (and what they could cost you!):
1. Not Buying a $2 Protector for Your Outdoor Faucet:
What It’ll Cost You: Up to $15,000 and a whole lot of grief
It’s amazing what a little frozen water can do damage-wise. An inch of water in your basement can cost up to $15,000 to pump out and dry out. And, yet, it’s so easy to prevent, especially with outdoor faucets, which are the most susceptible to freezing temps.
The simplest thing to do is to remove your garden hose from your outdoor faucet and drain it. Then add a faucet protector to keep cold air from getting into your pipes. They’re really cheap (some are under $2; the more expensive ones are still less than $10). “Get these now,” says Danny Lipford, home improvement expert and host of the “Today’s Homeowner” television and radio shows. “When the weatherman says we’ve got cold coming, they’ll sell out in minutes.”
While you’re at it, make sure any exposed pipes in an unheated basement or garage are insulated, too, or you’ll face the same pricey problem.
Wrap pipes with foam plumbing insulation — before the weather drops. It’s cheap, too, just like the faucet cover (only $1 for six feet of polyethylene insulation). And it’s an easy DIY project, as long as you can reach the pipes.
Spend Oh-So-Wisely on a Kitchen Remodel.
What It’ll Cost You: $500 — if you’re lucky; a lot more if you’re not
Those icicles make your home look so picturesque, you just gotta take a few pics. But you better make them quick. Those icicles can literally be a damproblem. (Yes, dam — not the curse word that sounds the same. )
Icicles are a clear sign that you’ve got an ice dam, which is exactly what it sounds like: a buildup of ice on your gutter or roof that prevents melting snow and ice from flowing through your gutters. That’s really bad news because these icy blocks can lead to expensive roofing repairs.
Depending on where you live, expect to pay at least $500 for each ice dam to be steamed off. Leave the ice and you risk long-term damage, which could ultimately cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars to your roof, depending on what type of shingles you have and the size of the damaged area.
How to prevent them? Insulation. “Ice dams, icicles, and ice buildup on the gutters is a symptom of not enough insulation in the attic,” says Chris Johnson, owner of Navarre True Value and several other stores in the Twin Cities area.
And “you need to have at least 14 inches of insulation in your attic, no matter where you live,” says Lipford. If you live in a colder climate, you’ll need more.
If you don’t have the cash to insulate, heated gutter cables, which run between $50 and $150 each, can be a less expensive alternative when temporarily affixed to areas prone to ice damming, Johnson suggests.
3. Going Lazy on Your Gutters:
What It’ll Cost You: You really don’t want to be in a position to find out
It can be so tempting to skip gutter cleanups as winter nears. It seems like as soon as you clear your gutters, they clog right back up again. So what’s the point?
Well, if it looks like you’re living inside a waterfall when it rains, water is missing your gutter system completely. It’s being directed to your foundation instead. And a water-damaged foundation is never, ever cheap to fix.
A contractor can plug foundation cracks for $1,500 to $3,000, says David Verbofsky, director of training for exterior home products manufacturer Ply Gem. But a worse problem, one that requires a foundation excavation or rebuild, can set you back (gulp) $30,000 or more.
Suddenly, cleaning your gutters a few times each fall doesn’t seem so bad. A pro can do the work for anywhere between $70 and $250, depending on the size of your gutter system.
4. Giving Cold Air a Chance to Sneak In:
What It’ll Cost You: Nights where you never feel warm, despite sky-high heating bills
“If it were possible to take every crack on the outside of a typical home and drag them together, you’d have the equivalent of a three-by-three window open all the time,” says Lipford. Yikes.
Yet cracks can be easily and inexpensively sealed with a simple tube of caulk, and it’s available in hundreds of colors to match your window panes, outside siding, and even brick. Not sure where to caulk? Look for visible cracks around:
Window sills, Baseboards, Fireplace or dryer vents, Anywhere something inside pokes a hole to the outside.
5. Not Getting Personal with Your Thermostat:
What It’ll Cost You: Money you could spend on something else besides heating
We all know we should, but we seem to have some mental block when it comes to programming our thermostats to align with our schedules. It’s not that hard, and sometimes all it takes is buying a new one that suits you. (Like maybe a Wi-Fi one that’ll give you a little money-saving thrill each time you swipe your app.)
“From a cost-savings perspective, a programmable thermostat is a great investment,” Lipford says — as much as 10% off your energy bill, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.
6. Skipping Furnace Tune-Ups:
What It’ll Cost You: A furnace that’ll die years before it should — and higher energy bills
“Forget to service your furnace and you could easily cut five years off the life of your system,” says Lipford, who added that five years is a full third of the typical unit’s life span. New units can cost around $4,000 installed, making the $125 annual maintenance charge a no-brainer.
While you’re at it, don’t forget to replace the furnace filter, which cleans the air in your home, and also keeps your furnace coils cleaner, which can shave up to 15% off your energy bill. Johnson suggests at least every three months, but possibly as often as monthly if you have allergies, pets, or smoke cigarettes at home.
7. Foregoing a Fireplace Inspection
What It’ll Cost You: Possibly your life — and your home
“A cozy fire is great, but if you don’t maintain your chimney, a fire can cost you thousands of dollars,” says Johnson, not to mention the risk to you and your family.
Schedule your maintenance appointment as early as you can.”If you wait until the busy season, you’ll have a hard time getting them out there, you’ll pay more, and you’ll get a lower quality job,” says Lipford.